Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital

Georgia's premier cat hospital - servicing Marietta, Roswell, Sandy Springs, Atlanta, Vinings, Cumming, Alpharetta, Morningside, Smyrna

(770) 579-6001

4719 Lower Roswell Road, Suite 220
Marietta, Georgia, 30068

Feline Diabetes Mellitus

Download PDF Version

Helpful Links

What is diabetes mellitus?

Diabetes mellitus is a medical condition resulting in an excessive amount of sugar (glucose) in the blood. This is caused by a deficiency of insulin, which is a hormone secreted by the pancreas. Insulin allows glucose to go from the blood into the cells of the body for use. Most cats with diabetes still produce some insulin, but the body’s cells are not able to use the insulin appropriately (called insulin resistance). Few cats produce no insulin at all.

The clinical signs seen in diabetes are largely related to the elevated concentrations of blood and urine glucose and the inability of the body to use glucose as an energy source due to the deficiency of insulin.

Diabetes mellitus affects an estimated one in four hundred cats, and is seen more frequently in middle to old-age cats, is more common in males than females, and in overweight cats than normal weight cats.

It is important to note that feline diabetes does not cause the same long term problems as seen in humans. It is also not managed the same way.

What are the clinical signs of diabetes mellitus?

The most common clinical signs seen in diabetic patients are an increase in water consumption and urination. Weight loss is also a common feature, and an increase in appetite may be noticed in some cats. Poor coat condition and weakness in the legs, more commonly the hind limbs, are other possible signs. Recognition of these signs is variable though, particularly because of the life-style of some cats. If a cat spends a lot of time outdoors, it may drink from ponds or pools of water outside rather than appearing to drink excessively from what is provided indoors. Sick cats, just like people, may act in ways we would refer to as cranky, easily agitated, or aggressive towards people, especially children, and/or other animals. Discomfort from any source/cause often causes cats to act out of their ordinary routine. They may hide, be less social, have different eating habits as described above, and/or different elimination habits which often means not using their litterbox to urinate and/or defecate. Sick cats are not being spiteful or acting out of anger, just out of distress and illness. It is their natural instinct to behave this way. In the wild, a sick cat is a weak cat and a weak cat is a potential victim. Changing their normal routine and/or demeanor may ward off a potential predator. So you see, what seems abnormal to the untrained human eye is actually normal to the feline survival instinct.

How is diabetes mellitus diagnosed?

The diagnosis of diabetes mellitus is made based on clinical signs, persistently elevated blood glucose concentration, and the presence of glucose in the urine. However, a diagnosis of diabetes may not be made on a single blood and urine sample as other conditions such as particular stress may also cause a transient rise in glucose levels. Confirmation of diabetes may therefore require additional diagnostics, such as a test called fructosamine. Fructosamine testing is very similar to A1C testing in humans. It measures the average blood glucose of the body over the previous two weeks. A very high average blood glucose indicates diabetes.

How is diabetes mellitus treated?

Diabetes mellitus is a treatable condition. Although long-term treatment requires commitment, it can be very rewarding to successfully manage this condition.

Initial steps in treating a diabetic cat may involve removal of any predisposing causes for the diabetes. For example, the administration of some drugs (steroids for example) predisposes cats to develop diabetes and withdrawal of these drugs may lead to resolution of the condition. Obese cats are more prone to develop diabetes and weight reduction can lead to resolution of the signs in some cats.

If there are no predisposing causes, or if correction of the predisposing causes does not lead to resolution of the diabetes, specific treatment is required. Most cats will require insulin injections to control the diabetes. During the initial stages of treatment, your cat will require several blood glucose evaluations in the form of a glucose curve (see below) and/or continuous glucose monitoring (ex. FreeStyle Libre) until an appropriate insulin dosage is determined. Most cats will achieve initial stabilization within a few days to a few weeks. Most cats will require twice daily injection of insulin, rarely once daily dosing is used. Very small needles are available which cause no pain to the cat, and within a short period of time the procedure becomes very routine. Administration times, dosages, and type of insulin will be determined by your veterinarian.

You will be taught by our staff how to give insulin injections to your cat.

Diet can also play a role in the treatment of diabetes. Your veterinarian may make a diet recommendation. However, no diet can be helpful if your cat will not eat it. In fact, it can be very dangerous if your cat does not eat while receiving insulin. So, you must make sure your cat likes its food and is eating. You cannot assume that if the cat gets hungry enough he/she will eat whatever you provide. This is not true for most cats and prolonged anorexia can lead to serious liver disease and death in cats. All cats and especially diabetic cats should be allowed to "free feed" on dry food left out all the time. Canned food should be offered at least twice daily, and we suggest combining this with insulin administration for two reasons. First, you can assure your cat has food in their system and second, you can create a positive association between the canned food and the insulin injection.

***Diabetic cats must always have easy access to fresh food and water. Since they will always have to urinate larger amounts more often, they must have additional litter boxes added throughout your home. ***

Is diabetic remission achievable?

Diabetic remission is something that may be achieved in a small subset of cats. Most cats who become diabetic are still producing insulin within their bodies, but their body is just not responding or able to use that insulin. In a small subset of cats, the insulin injections we give can allow the body to rest and “reset.” This means that the cat’s body may start to use the insulin the body produces again. If this occurs, the cat may be able to stop receiving insulin injections and is in what we call “diabetic remission.” If remission occurs, it is often within 1-4 months after diagnosis and starting insulin injections. However, remission is not always permanent. Many cats will become insulin-resistant again over time and require insulin again in the future. This is why monitoring for the symptoms of diabetes is so important!

Do treated cats need to be monitored?

Yes, it is important to monitor treatment to make sure it is working properly, and to determine if any insulin dosage adjustments are necessary.

You will be taught by our staff how to perform blood glucose curves on your cat in the comfort and convenience of your home and schedule. The first curve will take place 1-2 weeks after insulin administration begins as well as each time the dosage of insulin is changed. Once your cat is stabilized as determined by the doctor, curves are to be done monthly. A curve involves taking a blood glucose (BG) measurement, using a glucometer, at the time of insulin administrations and every two hours in between for a 12 hour period. At the time your cat is due for insulin the BG must be > 230 for it to be safe to give insulin. If the BG is < 230 do not give insulin and contact our office for instructions. If it is a Sunday do not give insulin and call our office Monday morning with an A.M. BG reading. Do not give insulin again until we tell you otherwise. It is safer to go without insulin, even for 36-48 hours, than to risk giving too much insulin and possibly causing hypoglycemia (low blood sugar/glucose). BG curve readings are to be recorded and then reported to our office  via email (catspwc@pawswhiskersandclaws.com). This information will be given to your cat’s veterinarian who will interpret the data, decide if a change in insulin dosage is required, what that change will be and when to do the next curve. Our office will then email/call you back with this information. It is not necessary to take BG readings on a daily or twice daily (at time of insulin administration) basis. The weekly or monthly curves are sufficient to assess insulin need and anticipate changes. In addition, cats will typically begin to resent such frequent BG testing. You will also be educated about the signs of hypoglycemia in cats so you will know what to look for on a daily basis and can always check a BG if you suspect low blood sugar.

In some cases, a continuous glucose monitor may be recommended. These devices are used in human medicine and often used for human diabetes management. Some of the devices, such as the FreeStyle Libre, have actually been studied and verified for use in cats. These devices are placed onto the skin after the hair is shaved and prepped by your veterinarian. A phone app is used to scan the device and see BG info. The device can stay on your cat for up to two weeks.

What happens if my cat receives too much insulin?

If a cat receives too much insulin, it is possible for the blood sugar level to drop dangerously low. For this reason it is important to be very careful in ensuring the cat receives the correct dose of insulin. This can also happen if your cat does not eat or is vomiting for a prolonged period of time (as quickly as a day or two) but still receives insulin. No food in his/her system = lower blood glucose levels which will drop even lower with the administration of insulin.

The typical signs displayed by a cat with a very low blood sugar level are severe weakness and lethargy, vocalizing, shaking, unsteadiness, and/or acting dazed and confused. The more serious signs include convulsions/seizures, coma, and death. If a diabetic cat shows any of the less serious signs, it is important to try to offer your cat some canned cat food (Hill's A/D, etc) or a special treat to tempt him/her to eat. If you can, try to get a blood glucose at this time so we know if the signs are due to low blood sugar. It is possible that something else is causing these signs. If your cat is conscious enough to be able to swallow but will not eat on its own, you can use an oral syringe to put some Karo (corn) syrup, honey, or sugar water in its mouth. Then try again to offer your cat a special treat/food. This may be enough to make your cat feel better and return to normal activity and mentation, but you should still notify our office or call the emergency clinic for guidance on future insulin administration. The doctor may also suggest your cat be seen by a veterinarian depending on the circumstances. If your cat is unable to swallow or showing any of the more serious signs mentioned above, you must seek veterinary attention immediately. If you are able to have someone call us or the emergency clinic while you are on your way, we can be better prepared for your cat's arrival and medical needs.

The sooner cats get on an insulin regime, the sooner they start to feel better. The signs you may have noticed at the time of diagnosis will lessen as we get the diabetes under control.

Type of Insulin:
__________________________________________________________________________

Each bottle expires in either 2 months or when the bottle is half empty,whichever is first. Regardless of what the bottle expiration date says. The bottle must be refrigerated. Prior to each use, mix insulin by gently rolling, do not shake.

Type of syringes:
________________________________________________
Amount of insulin to give:
____________________________unit(s) AM _______________________________unit(s) PM
Date first curve is to be performed:
__________________________________________________
Name of person giving BG lesson:
______________________________________________________
Date of BG lesson:
_________________________________________________________
Type of glucometer and test strips to purchase:
______________________________________________

We prefer if you use the brand glucometer we suggest for a couple of reasons: 1) If you are experiencing difficulty using it at home, we can walk you through problems easier over the phone and 2) we know this brand uses the “sip-in sampling" method which makes getting blood from your cat into the machine easier and requires a smaller amount of blood.

During any BG curve, if a BG is below 100, you want to take a BG every hour instead of every two hours as well as watch your cat closely for any of the signs listed above for low blood sugar. Glucometers can run up to approximately 100 points lower compared to the laboratory machines that check blood glucose levels. For this reason, the number alone should not be used to assess how your cat is doing. You should also evaluate how your cat is acting.

Keep in mind that with practice everything gets easier and this will too!! Call us for tips and tricks if you are having trouble getting blood or enough blood from your cat, etc. We are always happy to help you troubleshoot and be successful!

Administering Insulin

Remove the plastic cap on the plunger side of the insulin syringe. Push the plunger all the way in towards the needle. Once the bottle of insulin is removed from the refrigerator and gently rolled back and forth a few times, carefully remove the cap from the needle. Invert the bottle of insulin and carefully insert the needle through the rubber stopper in the bottle of insulin. (The needle should be pointed up towards the sky to meet the rubber stopper.) Pull back on the plunger to remove the appropriate amount of units of insulin. (Each line on the syringe is equal to one unit.) Then replace the cap on the needle. You are now ready to inject the insulin under the skin of your cat. On one side of the cat, in front of the hip, pull out a pocket of skin using three fingers to create a tented area of skin as shown in our office. Remove the cap off the needle and insert it into the skin pocket. Make sure the needle is inserted PARALLEL to the cat, not pointed towards his body. Also make sure the tip of the needle is pointed TOWARDS the head; that way, if something spooks them and they run away, the needle will just pull out instead of getting caught in and tearing the skin. Push the plunger all the way in and then remove the needle/syringe from your cat. Feel the area of skin/fur where you just injected to make sure you do not feel any moisture (insulin). This ensures that you got the insulin under the skin. If you feel moisture or are unsure if you got all the insulin under the skin and into your cat, DO NOT simply give your cat more insulin. Call our office for guidance. It is always safer to give less than more insulin at any one time.

Feline Heart Disease

Download PDF Version

What is cardiomyopathy?

Cardiomyopathy is a term used to describe diseases of the heart muscle. In cats, three classes of cardiomyopathy have been described: hypertrophic, dilated and intermediate (restrictive). In all classes, the heart disease usually results in clinical signs of heart failure. Cardiomyopathy may be seen as a primary condition or secondary to other diseases.

What are the clinical signs seen with cardiomyopathy?

img-1

In the early stages of disease, the cat may be able to cope and will not show any signs of disease. This is referred to as compensated heart disease. Often cats will alter their activity levels to those that they can cope with which makes it difficult to diagnose cardiomyopathy until it is quite advanced. Pain, discomfort, or just not feeling well may manifest in other less obvious ways. Pain or discomfort from any source/cause often causes cats to act out of their ordinary routine. They may hide, be less social, and have different eating habits and/or different elimination habits which often means not using their litterbox to urinate and/or defecate. They also may not feel strong enough to get to their litterbox, food, and/or water. Sick or painful cats are not being spiteful or acting out of anger, just out of distress, weakness, illness. It is their natural instinct to behave this way. In the wild, a sick cat is a weak cat and a weak cat is a potential victim. Changing their normal routine and/or demeanor may ward off a potential predator. As a result, what seems abnormal to the untrained human eye is actually normal to the feline survival instinct.

It is important to note that MANY cats with a cardiomyopathy will not have a detectable murmur on physical exam. Studies vary, but it is estimated that less than 50% of cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) will actually have a murmur on exam. Conversely, approximately 1/3 of healthy cats (with no underlying cardiomyopathy) will have a murmur! This is why heart disease in cats is often considered a silent killer, because we just don’t know that they even heart disease since there is no murmur on their exam, and even if they have a murmur, we don’t know if there is actually disease. An echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart) is ultimately necessary to know if cardiomyopathy is present.

The major long term concerns with all types of cardiomyopathy are:

1.Development of congestive heart failure:

Labored breathing (increased respiratory rate and/or effort, increased abdominal breathing, etc) and lethargy are the most frequently noticed signs of congestive heart failure and result from failure of the heart to efficiently pump blood.

2.Thromboembolic disease:

Altered flow of blood in enlarged heart chambers increases the risk of blood clot formation within the heart called a thrombus. If parts of the thrombus become dislodged, they can travel in the bloodstream and block smaller blood vessels. These traveling blood clots are called emboli, and the most common place for them to lodge is at the bottom of the aorta. This results in obstruction of the blood supply to the back legs, which is very painful and leads to paralysis. Although some cats may recover with appropriate intensive treatment, this is a potentially fatal complication of any cardiomyopathy. Emboli can also lodge in any other part of the body, including the lungs leading to difficulty breathing and the brain resulting in a stroke.

3.Hypertension:

High blood pressure, or hypertension, is a possible complication seen in many cases of hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). (Hypertension, especially if left uncontrolled, can also be a cause of HCM.) This may result in spontaneous bleeding, such as nose-bleeds or hemorrhage within the eye and may also cause retinal detachment and blindness. This may be noticed as a sudden loss of vision and a widely dilated pupil(s). This is an emergency situation since the blindness will be permanent unless the retina is reattached within a couple of days. Uncontrolled high blood pressure can also make cats feel anxious and restless (which can lead to excessive howling/meowing), inappetent, thirsty and just overall not well. It can also cause strokes and damage to the heart and kidneys. Drugs that lower the blood pressure may be used to treat cats with this problem. We can measure blood pressure in our office in just a few minutes. It is very similar to the way it is done in people. Examination of the eyes may give early indications of hypertension since the blood vessels of the retina may show changes and small hemorrhages may be seen.

How is cardiomyopathy diagnosed?

img-2

Diagnosis of heart disease can be suspected on the basis of clinical signs (weight loss, difficulty breathing, blue-purple color to the gums, abnormal heart rate and/or rhythm, heart murmur, vision problems, and other signs listed above), chest x-rays, electrocardiography (ECG) and echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart). As discussed previously, many cats with cardiomyopathy do not have a detectable heart murmur, so we may not find out about their cardiomyopathy until they develop heart failure and show symptoms related to their heart failure. Otherwise, an echocardiogram is necessary to determine if any cardiomyopathy is present.

In cases where hypertension is a possibility, blood pressure can be evaluated if suitable equipment is available. Retinal examination may provide evidence of hypertension where blood pressure measurements cannot be made.

Other tests may be done in order to check that the cardiomyopathy is not secondary to some other disease such as hyperthyroidism or high blood pressure.

What causes cardiomyopathy?

There are many causes of cardiomyopathy, but most types of cardiomyopathy are primary, meaning that there is no underlying cause. For example, HCM (hypertrophic cardiomyopathy) is one of the most common diseases of cats and there is no underlying cause other than genetics. However, in older cats, thyroid disease (hyperthyroidism) can also commonly cause cardiomyopathy. Other causes include a rare cause is dietary deficiency of taurine, an essential nutrient. This is not seen in cats fed a commercial cat food since all of these are supplemented with taurine nowadays.

How is cardiomyopathy treated?

In cases where an underlying cause of the heart disease is found, then treatment of this condition may result in improvement or reversal of the heart disease. Hyperthyroidism is the most treatable cause of cardiomyopathy since complete resolution of the heart disease is possible if diagnosed and treated early. In cases where no cause is identified (referred to as idiopathic cardiomyopathy) and in cases where disease remains following treatment for an underlying cause, then medication may be needed.

Treatment varies according to each case but may include:

  1. Diuretics if congestive heart failure is present.
  2. Beta blockers to reduce the heart rate where this is excessive.
  3. Calcium channel blockers to help the heart muscle relax and hence help more effective filling of the heart.
  4. Aspirin may be used for its effects at reducing the risk of thrombus formation and thrombo-embolic disease. Dosing of aspirin should always be as advised by a veterinarian since aspirin may be toxic to cats. Aspirin poisoning, which occurs if the dose or frequency of aspirin administration is too high, may cause vomiting and internal bleeding. If your cat shows these signs, stops eating or appears sick, aspirin therapy should be stopped and you should consult your veterinarian immediately.
  5. ACE inhibitors - these drugs also help to control congestive heart failure.
  6. Newer therapies are currently being studied for HCM, including a drug called Rapamycin. While these therapies are not commercially available yet, they show promising results and we hope to be able to use them soon!

The long term outlook for a cat with cardiomyopathy is extremely variable depending on the cause of this disease. Cats with idiopathic cardiomyopathy may remain stable for several years.

Does a cat with cardiomyopathy need a special diet?

Low sodium diets, such as Hill’s K/D or multi-organ, may be recommended for cats with cardiomyopathy. This may decrease the risk of developing congestive heart failure and hypertension. Cat treats are often quite salty and should be avoided. We may make specific dietary recommendations for your pet’s condition. Overall, it is most important that your cat eats so if your cat will not eat the recommended diet(s), feed your cat whatever cat food they will eat.

Heartworm Disease In Cats



Download PDF Version

img3The good news is that heartworm infection is easy to protect against; the bad news is only 59% of dog owners and less than 5% of cat owners protect their pets by giving them a heartworm preventative! Considering that heartworm disease has been reported in all 50 states, these percentages mean that not all pets that are at risk of infection are protected.

Because heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes, the majority of cases occur along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts and in the Mississippi, Missouri and Tennessee River valleys. However, all available evidence suggests that the disease is spreading throughout the United States, moving north and west. Heartworm infection is starting to appear with greater frequency in many regions where it was previously uncommon or unknown. This is why we want to stress the importance of keeping your pet protected against this potentially deadly disease.

What is Heartworm Disease?

Heartworm infection takes place when a mosquito carrying microscopic heartworm larvae (immature worm) bites a susceptible animal such as a dog or cat. The larvae then enter a blood vessel in the pet and are carried to the arteries in the lungs, where they cause inflammation. Worms can die at any stage in their life cycle, causing even more inflammation as well as potentially serious complications, particularly in cats. The worms that progress to the adult stage may live undetected for a number of years. But when the adult worms die, they cause inflammation in the heart or lungs that can be severe enough to cause the pet's death.

Heartworm infections in dogs differ greatly from those in cats. The dog is a natural host for this parasite, but the cat is not. Because of this, cats usually have fewer worms and a purportedly lower rate of infection. A dog may harbor 50 to 100 worms, but a recent study on feline heartworm disease from Auburn University found only an average of four worms per cat. Yet the feline body's response is so severe that even these few worms can cause significant damage. In fact, heartworm infection in both cats and dogs can be life threatening.

What are the signs of heartworm disease?

img-4The signs of heartworm disease vary from pet to pet. Dogs may cough, have difficulty breathing and wear out quickly (referred to as exercise intolerance). In cats, the most common signs are coughing, difficulty breathing and vomiting, but they can also include blindness, convulsions, diarrhea, fainting, and loss of appetite or weight.

The signs of feline heartworm disease are often mistaken for feline asthma, allergic bronchitis, or other respiratory diseases, which means that cats with heartworm disease may be misdiagnosed. And both dogs and cats may not exhibit any signs of the disease, which is scary when you consider that heartworm infection can cause sudden death.

How can I protect my pet?

Heartworm preventatives are the best way to keep your pet free of heartworms. Preventatives work by killing heartworm larvae that infected your pet in the prior 30 days, before the larvae have the opportunity to develop into adults. These products also protect against some intestinal parasites. Some products even have activity against fleas and ear mites.

A variety of options are available for preventing heartworm infection, including monthly tablets and chewables and monthly topicals. All these products are extremely effective. When they are administered properly and on a timely schedule, they can completely prevent heartworm infection. Heartworm prevention is safe, easy and inexpensive. In addition, there is no approved treatment for heartworm infection in cats.

The American Heartworm Society and Companion Animal Parasite Council recommend year-round prevention, even where mosquitoes are seasonal. This recommendation makes sense considering that these preventatives also protect against the aforementioned intestinal parasites, which are not seasonal and infect millions of cats and people each year. While this number is alarming, it is not a reason to get rid of the family cat. You can protect your entire family by giving your cat a monthly broad based spectrum heartworm preventative. Speak with us today about a preventative plan that is best for you and your cat.

Five myths about feline heartworm disease

Many people do not realize that cats can get heartworm disease. With more dog owners than cat owners protecting their pets with a heartworm preventative, it might raise the question: Do we love our dogs more than our cats? We don't believe that we do. We think cat owners just need to learn about the risks heartworms pose to their pets, so we'd like to share our top five myths about feline heartworms.

Myth #1: It only affects dogs.

Heartworm disease is not just a canine disease. Cats are getting heartworm far more often than we previously believed. A yearlong study conducted in the Gulf Coast area found that 26% of the cats had been infected with heartworm larvae at some point in their lives, and found adult heartworms in 10% of the cats. Compare this with the feline leukemia virus (FelV) incidence of 5% and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) incidence of 6%, and you can see that feline heartworm is much more widespread.

Myth #2: It only affects outdoor cats.

Indoor cats are not impervious to heartworm infection. A North Carolina study found that 27% of cats diagnosed with heartworm were indoor-only cats. It only takes one mosquito to cause an infection, and because mosquitoes can get indoors, both indoor and outdoor cats are at risk.

Myth #3: It's a heart disease.

The name "heartworm disease" is a misnomer for cats, as it mostly affects their lungs, not their heart. Because cats are unique in their respiratory reaction to heartworms, a new title has been given to this particular set of symptoms: heartworm- associated respiratory disease, or HARD. Cats that suffer from HARD can have difficulty breathing and can die from the disease. However, even in the late stages, afflicted animals often exhibit no symptoms.

Myth #4: Only adult heartworms cause problems.

Unlike dogs, cats do not need an adult heartworm to exhibit clinical signs; in fact larvae are a main cause of the problems. Studies show that 50% of cats infected with heartworm larvae have significant damage of the small arteries that supply blood to the lungs. Most larvae in cats never make it to the adult stage, and the Auburn University study found that dead, decomposing worms can cause major damage to the lung tissue, which can lead to airway disease.

Myth #5: It's easy to test for.

Diagnosis is much more difficult for cats than it is for dogs, and current testing practices miss many feline infections. If your cat is exhibiting signs of heartworm disease (e.g., coughing, difficulty breathing, vomiting), talk to your veterinarian.

Online Resources:

X-O Odor Neutralizer and Cleaner

Made from nature's safest and most effective ingredients; extracts of herbs, fruits and cereal grains in pure deionized water. X-O neutralizes all odors, cleans hard and soft surfaces and has gentle cleaning action for perineal (their behind!) cleaning-that means this product is safe enough to use on your pet!

Eco-friendly stain and odor remover.
Eco-friendly stain and odor remover.

Our entire collection of enzyme cleaners & odor eliminators.
Our entire collection of enzyme cleaners & odor eliminators.

Declawing



Download PDF Version

Helpful Links

Declawing is a controversial procedure, and many myths surround declawing. It is important that you understand why cats scratch, what declawing does, and what a cat experiences as a result.

Paws Whiskers & Claws does not declaw!

We know that it is unnecessary, and we prefer to educate our clients about feline scratching and how to stop inappropriate scratching behavior.

What is declawing?

Declawing is the amputation of the first digit of each toe, comparable to taking off your fingers at the first knuckle. It is not a simple “nail” removal as the popular myth states.

It is an extremely painful procedure, and causes your cat great stress, not just right after surgery but also during the recuperation period and often for weeks and even months afterward.

If the procedure is not done correctly, the cat can lose part of her pads or, more commonly, there may be painful deformed re-growths that require additional surgery.

What is the effect of declawing on a cat?

Declawing can result in medical, emotional, and behavioral problems. The effects may appear immediately, or may occur even years after the surgery.

Medical issues:

Declawing is an unnecessary amputation that is illegal in many countries and is being outlawed in areas of the United States. Re-growths (explained above) can cause the cat so much pain that she is unable to walk or even stand. A cat bears about to 60% of her body weight on her front limbs. After declawing, she is forced to bear that weight on parts of her feet that are not intended to support her weight, so there can be bruising or lameness even years after surgery. We have seen cases where cats have had to undergo multiple “re-declaw” surgeries after experiencing re-growths on different toes at different times. Surgery is the only way to relieve their pain, which is similar to what you’d feel walking barefoot on broken glass.

Emotional issues:

Your cat may withdraw and go into hiding after this surgery. She will feel helpless because you have taken away her primary defense. A declawed cat may resort to biting because you’ve left her no other way to ward off an unwanted advance.

Behavioral issues:

Declawing a cat can lead to numerous behavioral problems including litter aversion, aggression issues, and biting.

  • Litter box aversion occurs because the cat must stand in litter and bear weight on her mutilated toes, so she may associate pain with the litter box. Although many veterinarians recommend using soft litters or shredded newspaper after surgery, this does not necessarily prevent infection or pain associated with use of the litter box. Many of the cats we see with behavioral litter box aversion problems are declawed.
  • Another serious consequence of declawing is aggression. Declawed cats that we see at our hospital tend to be more aggressive, most likely because they associate their painful feet with a visit to the vet. These cats are often highly fractious and difficult to manage, even for our well-trained staff. You may incur additional expenses related to this behavior, such as sedation before your cat can be examined or treated. These cats are so terrified that they will use every defense mechanism they have remaining. Unfortunately, many owners and even some vets mistake a cat’s fear for being “mean”, and their subsequent handling of the cat merely reinforces their fear.Often expectant parents are concerned about their cat possibly scratching a child. A cat will only scratch a human if provoked by fear or pain. If you teach the child how to touch the cat appropriately, and provide safe areas where the cat can escape the grasping hands of the child, the cat will not injure your child.
  • A cat’s first line of defense is her claws. When that option is taken away, she must resort to biting. Anyone who works with cats will tell you that a scratch is preferable to a bite wound any day! A bite is more dangerous due to the risk of serious infection.

Even if you keep a declawed cat indoors, accidents happen: windows get left open, or a visitor leaves a door open… A declawed cat is in grave danger if she ever gets outside alone! Not only is she defenseless, but she is seriously hampered if she tries to catch something to eat. She’ll be unable to flee from dogs and other dangers by climbing.

Why do cats scratch?

Scratching is a normal feline behavior. There are many reasons why a cat may scratch, which include:

  • Marking: cats have scent glands in the pads of their feet and they scratch to leave scent marks. They often do this to mark the belongings you share, such as the sofa.
  • Shedding the outer sheaths of the nail: a cat’s nails grow in layers (like an onion) and they need to scratch to shed the outer nail sheath, or the nail could continue to grow into the foot pad.
  • Relieving stress or frustration: some cats may increase their marking (such as scratching and urine marking) when they are anxious.
  • Stretching: watch how your cat s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-s as she scratches to flex her spine.
  • Exuberance: sometimes your cat scratches just because it feels good!

How can I stop my cat from scratching?

You can’t. It is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely. You can try to understand and meet their scratching needs so that they won’t damage your belongings.

Read our Feline Scratching Behavior handout for more information on how to focus your cat’s instinctive need to scratch in appropriate ways.

Myths about Declawing

I have to declaw my cat because she’s damaging the furniture.
Cats will scratch; it’s part of their nature. The key is to provide alternative scratching areas. Good scratching posts, made with the right material, placed in the right locations, are more attractive to your cat than scratching the furniture.
My other cat is declawed.
Indoor cats rarely use their claws on each other, so your declawed cat should not have problems with another cat that still has claws. For example, look at the dozens of cats that live together at cage-free shelters. Most of those cats have claws, but some do not, and they all get along just fine.
I don’t want my cat to scratch the children.
Cats are no more likely to scratch a child than they are to scratch another cat: it won’t happen unless the cat is provoked. Teach your children how to gently pet and play with the cat, and how to watch for signs that the cat is getting over-stimulated or stressed. Keep the cat’s nails trimmed! It’s easy, it’s painless, and it can help to avoid accidental scratches and hurt feelings. Remember that a scratch wound is far less serious than a bite wound, but a declawed cat has only one choice for defense!
What about a tendonectomy?
Tendonectomy involves severing the tendons to the cat’s toes so she can’t control her claws. There is a high rate of complications, you still need to trim the cat’s claws, and the cat can still claw to some extent. This is not an acceptable option.
My family doctor said that getting scratched could be dangerous.
Doctors often raise the issue of cats scratching when a person has a blood clotting disorder or certain other diseases. Often the doctor is uninformed about the reasons why a cat might scratch and unaware that a more-dangerous bite is more likely to occur if the cat is declawed. Most cat scratches are not deep enough to pose a problem even to a person who is taking blood thinners. With reasonable care, you can safely co-exist with your cat and her claws, as some of our clients have shown.

Resources

  • The sisal-weave posts available at our hospital work better than any other post that we have seen. They are designed to meet your cat’s needs for a tall, sturdy scratching post, and are meticulously hand-crafted.
  • We offer free nail trims any time, no appointment necessary. We can also teach you how to trim your cat’s nails. Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed will minimize damage done if your cat occasionally strays from the post.
  • Read our Feline Scratching Behavior handout to learn about selecting and placing scratching posts, and other related information.
  • As a last resort, we offer a product called Soft Paws. They are plastic caps you put on the tips of a cat’s nails using a non-toxic adhesive. You may call us for more information about this product, but most clients find this alternative to be tedious and unnecessary. The caps can pop off, and they need to be reattached periodically as the cat’s claws grow. Cats sometimes find it frustrating to have the nail caps glued on, because their nature tells them to remove the outer nail sheath. Soft Paws are a temporary fix because they will not change the cat’s behavior, they just curb the destruction.

The bottom line

There are many reasons why cats scratch. We’ve explained some of the many reasons why declawing is not the answer to inappropriate scratching behavior.

The non-surgical alternatives are less expensive and less painful than declawing.

It’s never necessary to amputate her toes to stop your cat from inappropriate scratching!

If you feel that you must have a declawed cat, adopt a cat that has already been declawed.

If you still feel the need to declaw your cat, even after learning exactly what declawing is and how it can affect your cat for years to come, we strongly recommend that you consider finding another home for the cat. That way, she will not have her toes amputated, and won’t risk developing one of the many medical or behavioral problems that frequently result!

How to get Your Cat to Drink Water



Download PDF Version

  1. Canned food is an excellent way to encourage water consumption, because it is high in water content and most cats love the taste. It can be warmed up in the microwave to enhance its smell. We recommend feeding canned food one or two times a day in addition to freely fed dry food. You can also add water to the canned food.
  2. If your cat prefers to drink from a tap, make sure she can always get to the tap-don’t lock her out of the bathroom if that is where she likes to drink. If your schedule permits, turn the tap on for your cat as often as possible throughout the day.Do not allow your cat (or dog) to drink from the toilet-chemical residue can be toxic!Water fountains can be purchased for cats that like fresh flowing water
  3. Provide fresh water every day. Cats are very aware of the temperature and taste of water.
  4. Make sure the water bowl is filled to the brim at all times. Cats have very sensitive whiskers and do not like putting their face into a bowl; a wider bowl may be necessary.
  5. Some cats do not like the taste of tap water. You might wish to try:
    1. Refrigerating the tap water to improve its taste
    2. Filtered water (Brita or Pur home filters are widely available)
    3. Distilled waterd.Bottled water
    4. Bottled water
  6. Some cats will drink more water if a drop or two of tuna juice is added. If you try this, always make sure a separate bowl of fresh water is available. You can try adding clam juice instead of tuna.
  7. Some cats enjoy ice cubes made from flavored broth. You can make a broth by simmering 6 oz of tuna or salmon mixed with 2 cups of water for 10 minutes.Strain the mixture through cheesecloth and pour into ice cube trays.
  8. Keep the food and water bowls away from litter box areas.
  9. Keep the water bowl clean. Cats have a keen sense of smell and are easily turned off by odors on the edge of the bowl. Stainless steel or glass dishes are easier to keep clean and odor free vs. plastic dishes. Some cats seem to prefer a clear shallow glass bowl from which to drink. Experiment with different water bowls.Water bowls should be washed daily.
  10. If your cat tends to tip the water bowl over, weigh down the bowl by placing a large stone that has been thoroughly washed into it, or try a commercially available weighted or tip-free bowl.

Subcutaneous Fluids Administration



Download PDF Version

Helpful Links

Your cat may need to receive subcutaneous fluids for various reasons: to keep her hydrated when she’s ill, to assist in recovery from injury or illness, to combat the effects of kidney disease, etc.

If this becomes necessary, we will teach you how to administer the fluids at home, or you can bring the cat in to the office and wait while we administer the fluids for you. The process takes only about 5 minutes.

It may seem daunting to think about inserting a needle into your cat to give fluids, but it’s actually a simple procedure that gets easier with practice. Detailed steps are described below, and our staff will give you a hands-on lesson. We have lots of tips to make it easy for you and your cat!

Watch this video to see how to insert a needle:  Administering Subcutaneous Injections

The amount and frequency of fluids will be determined by your vet, and may be adjusted after periodic rechecks of your cat’s blood and/or urine.

Location

You need a location where you can hang the bag of fluids. You can use a picture-hanger hook in the wall, or a coat hanger that can be hung anywhere, or some other method.The bag must behung at least a couple of feet above the cat.

You can try different ways to administer fluids. Some people sit on the floor with the kitty in their lap. Others like to work on a table or counter.Many people administer fluids in the bathroom because the countertop is at a convenient level,they can hang the bag easily, and they can close the door.Try different methods until you know what works best for you and your cat.

Watch here to see:  How To Make Administering Fluids Positive.

Supplies

You’ll need these items, which you can purchase from PWC:

  • Bag of fluids(saline or Lactated Ringers solution)
  • Line(1 line can be used for 2 bags of fluids; then replace it)
  • Needles (a new needle each time you give fluids)

You may also want to have some canned food or treats to keep the cat occupied and happy while you give fluids.If your cat is not food motivated, try brushing or some other form of positive reinforcement.

Details

At this time, your veterinarian recommends the following:

Amount of fluid to give:
____________________________
How often and when:
________________________________
Date of first recheck:
________________________________

Instructions

Relax! If you’re nervous, your cat will notice and may become agitated.

Watch this video to see How To Set Up Sub Q Fluids

  1. Attach the line to the bag. Remember that both ends of the line are sterile;don't touch them or let them fall to any surface.
  2. Attach the needle (still covered) to the end of the line. Hang the bag as high as you can.Squeeze the reservoir at the top of the line until it is half full offluids.If you squeeze too much, turnthe bag upside-down and squeeze the reservoir until it is half full again.
  3. Run a stream of fluids through the line to remove all the air from the line. You are now ready to administer subcutaneous fluids to your cat.There are 1000mLs in each bag and the numbers indicate the amount of fluid remaining in the bag.Each number on the bag represents 100 mL and each mark between represents 50mLs. Before you start, check the amount of fluid in the bag to determine where you should stop. For example,if the level is at 300mL and your cat gets 150mL every day, you’d stop the flow when the level of fluids gets down to the mark between 4 and 5 (the 450mL level). Note: From the 9 to the bottom of the bag equals 100mL.
  4. Position the cat on a table or countertop,on your lap or on the floor next to you.
  5. Remove the needle cap and set it aside.Using the three finger method pull out a pocket of skin on one side of the cat, in front of the hip.Insert the needle into the skin pocket.Do not push the needle all the way through the skin pocket.
    • Insert the needle parallel to the cat’s body, not pointed toward the body.
    • Point the tip of the needle toward the cat’s head; if the cat runs away , the needle will fall out without tearing the skin.
    • You can also administer the fluids in the scruff of the neck. This is useful if the cat is squirmy and there is no one to help hold your cat
  6. With your thumb, spin the roller on the line flow control mechanism up to start the flow of fluid.
    • Look at the reservoir to make sure the fluid is flowing and not just dripping slowly. If it is dripping, pull the skin slightly forward,away from the needle,in case the skin was against the end of the needle, preventing a steady flow.Also check that the line is not crimped.
  7. After the correct amount of fluids have been administered,stop the flow by spinning the roller on the flow control mechanism down with your thumb.
  8. Pull the needle out of the skin pocket . You can pinch the skin slightly at the needle entry point in order to slow leakage before the skin seals itself.However, some leakage will occur;this is normal,so don't be alarmed. You may also see some blood or blood-tinged fluid leak out ; you may have nicked a tiny vessel in the skin. This will heal quickly on its own and is also normal.
  9. Put a new, sterile needle on the line, give your cat a kiss, and you're done until next time!Be sure to place the cap back on the used needle and dispose of it properly.

To make the experience more pleasant for your cat, feed her some canned food or treats while she's getting fluids or right afterward.She will learn to associate the procedure with something she enjoys!Don’t always insert the needle in the same spot on the cat; alternate between sides.

It may make your cat more comfortable if you warm the fluids first by immersing the bag (but do not immerse the needle) in hot water.You MUST TEST the fluid temperature on your skin(such as on the inside of your arm)before giving it to the cat so you don’t scald her!

Caution:

If your cat is due for fluids and you notice that the fluids from the last treatment have not been absorbed,do not give more fluids! Call our office for instructions from the veterinarian the next business day.

Caution:

If you ever notice your cat’s breathing is labored, do not give fluids. Call our office or the emergency clinic right away.

Medicating Your Cat



Download PDF Version

Helpful Links

Pill Pockets:
Pill Pockets are a soft chew with a hollow center with room for a pill inside. We recommend giving them to your cat as a treat first, get your cat hooked, then spike one with the pill. They are available in chicken or salmon flavor. Pill Pockets also make great treats for healthy cats knowing they will likely need a pill at some point in the future.
Flavor Doh:
Flavor Doh is a tub of flavored moldable dough-similar to Pill Pockets-but you use only what you need to cover the pill or capsule completely.This option allows you to hide larger pills or capsules. It is available in chicken or fish flavor.
Baby Food:
Cats love single ingredient human baby food! Try crushing the tablet and mixing into a teaspoon of baby food. Make sure that there are no other ingredients such as onion powder as they can be harmful to your cat. We recommend Gerber 2nd stage Chicken and Gravy, Turkey and Gravy or Beef and Gravy.
Tuna Water:
Tuna meat is not good for your cat, but the water that is poured off the can is a great medicating tool. Simply crush the tablet and mix into the tuna water.You can also mix liquid medication into tuna water to ease administration.
Canned Cat Food:
Many medications can be disguised in your cat’s favorite canned food, or you may choose to use a canned food that is different from what they get each day so that it is special and they only get a small amount at meds time.
Kitty Burrito:
If your cat tries to push your hand away with her paw, try wrapping her in a kitty burrito. Place your cat in the center of a towel and wrap one side at a time over her,leaving only her head sticking out. Make sure it is not too tight around the neck, but tight enough so she can’t get her paws out. Ask us for a demonstration, or view this technique online at the website listed at the end of this handout.
Pill Gun:
A pill gun is a plastic rod with a little rubber cup on the end that holds the pill until the plunger is pressed. It is helpful to use a pill gun if your cat tends to clench their jaw or bite when being pilled.The pill gun can be used either with the scruffing technique or the check bone technique as shown at the website listed at the end of this handout.
Be prepared:
Try keeping medications and supplies in an area where you already spend time with your cat. Keeping things at home as routine as possible will make it easy for you and less stressful for your cat.This will also often times prevent your cat from “catching on” and hiding from you at meds time.
Ask For Options:
If you are having trouble medicating your cat, don’t give up. Ask if there are other options available. Some tablets are available in a liquid form and there are compounding pharmacies that may be able to offer you flavored chewable treats or,in rare instances,a transdermal gel that is simply rubbed on the skin.If you’re struggling to administer necessary medications, our staff offers “pilling” lessons and there may be a pet sitter in your area that can come by and help.

Oral Syringe Parfait:

  • Using a 6ml and a 3ml oral medicating syringe and some soft canned food, preferably Science Diet a/d or baby food, draw up 3mls of food in the 3ml syringe.
  • Completely pull out the plunger of the 6ml syringe.
  • Place the full 3ml syringe down inside the 6ml and express the food,withdrawing the 3ml syringe as you go. This creates a foundation of food at the tip of the 6ml syringe.
  • Place any liquid or crushed medication inside the 6ml syringe.
  • Place 2mls of food on top of the medication using the 3ml syringe.You are now done with the 3ml syringe.
  • Your syringe should now be layered food/medication/food.
  • Place the 6ml plunger back into the barrel of the 6ml syringe. A little food-about 1/2ml-will push out of the tip of the 6ml syringe, which is the purpose for putting such a large amount of food in first.
  • Now you are ready to give this mixture to your cat. If your cat does not like it as a treat, simply syringe into their mouth using the technique described in the video link below.

Remember to be calm when trying to medicate your cat. If you are stressed or your kitty is upset,take a break and try again later. Make sure to keep a supply of oral syringes, Science Diet a/d, Pill Pockets and even a pill gun on hand so that you have options.Lastly, remember to always reward your cat after administering any type of medication or treatment. You can reward with treats, playtime or affection and doing so will make your cat associate the meds time with something positive.

 

Flea Fundamentals

Download PDF Version

I have fleas! What should I do?

  • DO – Treat all pets in the household with a topical flea treatment such as Revolution or Frontline.
  • DO – Flea comb your pets to remove flea “dirt” as well as live fleas while monitoring progress of treatment.
  • DO – Vacuum! All carpeted or upholstered areas, furniture, mattresses, cracks and crevices around base boards and cat furniture/scratching posts.Discard your vacuum bag or contents of your vacuum canister immediately outside the home so fleas do not crawl back out.
  • DO – Laundry! Launder all throw rugs, bath mats, pet bedding and your bedding. Fleas drown in hot, soapy water. Fleas drown in soapy water.
  • DO – Treat your home. 95% of flea stages are in your environment. Your pets act as a “salt shaker” dispersing eggs everywhere your pet goes in the home. These eggs can survive up to a full year in your carpet, resulting in constant re-infestation if left untreated. If you prefer to do it yourself, we offer Flea Stoppers powder or also check out Flea Busters, both products are safe and effective.
  • DO – Deworm your cat for tapeworms. Cats groom and ingest fleas, eggs and larvae causing tapeworms in the intestinal tract. Deworming should be given when fleas are discovered and again once fleas have been eliminated.
  • DO – Be aware that fleas may cause illness in your pet such as infectious anemia, bartonella (catscratch disease) or flea allergy dermatitis (FAD).
  • DO – Make sure that any pet visiting your home, even for a few minutes, has been properly treated for fleas. Many infestations occur after family or friends have visited your home with their unprotected pet.
  • DO – Treat your car, especially if your pets travel with you.

I have fleas! What should I not do?

  • DON’T – Treat your pet with grocery store brand topical treatments. These products can be toxic to cats, causing kidney failure, allergic reactions, seizures, coma or even death.
  • DON’T – Use flea collars, sprays, or flea powders.In addition to not being very effective, these products can be toxic to cats, causing kidney failure, allergic reactions,seizures, coma or even death. The best place for a flea collar is inside your vacuum bag or canister!
  • DON’T – Use flea shampoos,remember fleas drown in any soapy water and the insecticides used in flea shampoos may not be safe for your cat. Additionally, the insecticide is immediately washed off and the now clean cat is re-infested with fleas from the environment.
  • DON’T – Treat your home with products that may not be safe for you or your pet. Flea “bombs” and most pest control companies are not recommended.
  • DON’T – Use over the counter deworming medication.In addition to potential safety risks, these products usually are not effective.
  • DON’T – Assume your cat does not have fleas because you can not see them. Many cats are excellent groomers and often ingest all of the evidence of flea infestation. Weight loss, hair loss,scratching, scabby patches of skin, soft stools, blood in the stool, black comma shaped debris on pet bedding that turns red when moistened are all other indicators of a potential flea problem.

Flabbergasting Flea Facts!

  • One female flea can produce 2,000 eggs in it’s lifetime – up to 50 per day!
  • Fleas can reproduce year round, especially in Southern climates.
  • The adults you see on your pet are only 5% of the problem; 95% of flea infestations are the tiny eggs, larvae and pupae!
  • Flea infestations can thrive in an area as small as the welcome mat outside your door!
  • Your pet does not have to go outside to acquire fleas; you can bring them in on your socks and shoes!
  • Remember flea control products do not create an invisible shield around your pet. Fleas must come into contact with skin or fur to be affected by topical flea treatments. So you may see an occasional flea from time to time.

Flea-sources

Revolution® (selamectin)

Revolution is the first-ever FDA-approved, topically applied medication for cats that kills adult fleas (Ctenocephalides felis) and prevents flea eggs from hatching, prevents heartworm disease caused by Dirofilaria immitis,treats and controls ear mites(Otodectes cynotis), treats and controls roundworms (Toxocara cati) and hookworms (Ancylostoma tubaeforme). Revolution enters the bloodstream through the skin. Concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissues prevent heartworm disease and prevent and treat roundworm and hookworm infections. Revolution selectively redistributes from the blood to the skin and other tissues, where it provides protection against fleas, flea eggs, and ear mites for one month. It is safe to use on cats that are at least 6 weeks old.

Frontline® (fipronil)

Frontline is another topically applied medication. One spot-on application kills fleas on cats for 4 weeks.After Frontline has been applied, it spreads to cover the entire body surface, and kills fleas by contact, which means they don't have to bite the animal to die. It is safe to use on cats that are over 8 weeks old.

Capstar® (nitenpyram)

Capstar is an oral insecticide. It is very fast acting - fleas start to die within 30 minutes of administration, and most are dead within 2-3 hours. Capstar is inexpensive,but unfortunately very short acting. After 24 hours, any fleas arriving on the animal may be unaffected. We use Capstar mainly as an adjunct to topical flea treatments. It is safe to use on cats that are both over 4 weeks old,and more than 2 pounds in weight.

Owner compliance is the best way to eradicate flea infestations. Be diligent with the treatment of all pets in the household, be fastidious about cleanliness and be persistent knowing that there is not a quick fix to a flea infestation.Prevention is the best medicine!

Litterbox Facts

Download PDF Version

The saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies to litter boxes! Follow these simple rules to avoid many of the most common reasons for inappropriate elimination.

Litter Box Basics

You need to consider the number, size, and type of boxes.

How many?

The basic rule is a minimum of one litter box per cat, plus one. That means if you have two cats, you should have at least three litter boxes. Many cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In a multi-level home, you should have at least one litter box on every floor.

What size?

 

img-6When it comes to litter boxes, larger is better. Even the so-called large litter boxes sold in pet supply stores are too small for most cats. The litter box should be 1-1/2 times the length of your cat's body so that your cat has room to move around in the box and not have to step in soiled areas.

We recommend using large plastic storage bins instead of commercial litter boxes. You can cut an entrance on one side to provide easier access. The high sides of these bins help contain litter when the cat digs and covers. Some cats, especially older and arthritic cats, can't or don't squat to urinate, and may accidentally urinate or defecate over the side of a smaller box; these bins eliminate that problem.

Purchase clear or transparent bins, especially for multi-cat households. Cats are vulnerable when they are in the litter box, and it's important that they can see what's around them. You can bring us your own bin and we'll cut and sand the entrance for you for a minimal charge. If you decide to try cutting an opening on your own, you must use a Dermal Tool with a heavy duty reinforced cutting disk.

Litter box types

  • Do not use hooded litter boxes exclusively! The hood traps odors inside and, even if scooped every day, it will quickly become offensive to your cat. The hood also makes it easier for a cat to be ambushed if there is any aggression between cats.
  • Note: A hooded litter box may be helpful if you have a cat that is shy About her toilet habits, but offer uncovered boxes as well.
  • Even though we recommend large storage bins as litter boxes, consider providing a large shallow container as an alternative. For example, you can get an inexpensive 30"x30"x2" plastic drip pan (intended for washing machines) at Home Depot. These are ideal for arthritic cats.
  • Electronic self-cleaning litter boxes may work for some cats, but we do not recommend them for a number of reasons.
  • Do not use litter box liners? Cats generally don't like the feel or the noise of these bags, and they actually create more mess than not using them because cats’ nails snag and tear the liners. Scented litter deodorants may irritate your cat's paws and the scent is offensive to delicate feline noses.

Litter Box Location

Placement of the litter boxes is extremely important. The litter box areas must be comfortable, convenient and safe.

    • Provide litter boxes on every floor of a multi-level home.
    • Do NOT place litter boxes in the same area as your cat's food and water. You wouldn't want to eat where you eliminate and neither does your cat!
    • In multi-cat households, do not place the boxes in "dead end" locations (such as closets) that offer only one way out. If a cat feels threatened by another cat, the dead-end location may create an opportunity for her to be ambushed, and she'll avoid using the box. Place the litter boxes in open areas or next to a cat condo so your cat has the option to flee "up". Avoid forcing the cat to use stairs or a cat door to reach the litter box because that can also lead to an ambush.
    • Do not place litter boxes in dark, loud, or odorous places, such as the Laundry room or near the furnace!
    • Cats cannot see in the dark; there must be a light source nearby so that The cat can use the litter box at night. Nightlights work well.
    • To keep other pets or small children away from the litter box, you can place a baby gate across the room entrance. You can raise the bottom of the gate a few inches off the floor to allow the cat to crawl under.

If you have further questions or would like an evaluation of your litter box placement, please contact us.

Choosing the Litter Box Filler

Remember to offer unscented litter. Your cat's nose is quite literally at least 14 times more sensitive than yours. What smells "fresh" to you can be overwhelmingly strong to your cat, and may lead to litter box avoidance!

Scoopable litter

Most cats prefer clumping scoopable litter over clay litter. Brands of scoopable litter differ in texture; you can experiment a bit to find the texture or brand that you and your cat like. (However, once you find a litter your cats like, avoid changing brands because sudden change can be disruptive to your cats.) You must scoop out clumped waste daily.

We recommend Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract litter. It is a clumping, scoopable litter that tracks less that other clumping litters. Cats prefer the size and texture, as well as the natural herbal blend (the scent mimics the aroma of soil and plant materials). You can use Cat Attract Litter Additive to any brand of unscented litter. We also recommend Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Classic Unscented or Ultra Unscented litter.

A good alternative for geriatric or declawed cats is Exquisicat Advanced Scoop, which is a clumping paper litter with a soft airy texture.

If you notice that your cat doesn't bother to cover the urine or feces in the box, chances are she doesn't like the type of litter you are offering.

Clay litter

Clay litter box filler is recommended for kittens that might accidentally ingest the finer scoopable litter. You must empty, clean, and refill the box daily. We recommend the Publix brand clay litter.

Alternate litter box fillers

Cats in the wild can chose from a wide variety of surfaces such as grass, pine straw, dirt, gravel, etc. You can provide options for your indoor cats too. While scoopable litter should be the filler in most boxes, you can offer alternate litter box filler in one or two boxes.

Some cats prefer using a puppy-training pad inside a regular litter box. The pads are available in any pet supply store. Cats may use them for urinating as well as defecating. Remove the soiled pad, wipe the box clean, and replace the pad whenever it is soiled. Puppy-training pads are a great option for cats that urinate excessively. Pads may also be preferred by declawed and arthritic cats.

Strange as it may seem, some cats prefer an empty litter box. They may not like the feel of anything under their feet except the smooth plastic box.

Avoid alternate litter box fillers that have a strong odor, such as cedar or citrus- scented litter or recycled newspaper pellets.

Litter Box Cleanliness

If you're using clay litter, you must empty, clean, and refill the litter boxes daily. Don't just scoop out the solid waste and stir up the wet litter; it may look better to you, but all you've done is spread the urine throughout the box soiling the entire box and making it offensive for your cat to step in.

If you're using scoopable litter, scoop each litter box at least once daily. Add fresh litter as needed to replace the soiled litter that was removed.

Empty and thoroughly clean scoopable litter boxes at least every 1-2 months. Use soap and water and be sure to remove all traces of litter and soil, and then disinfect the box with a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse the box thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach!

Keep the area around the litter boxes clean. You can place the litter boxes on a plastic runner, a vinyl tablecloth, or a short-knapped bath mat. These can be cleaned easily by shaking them outside or laundering them.

You can place a tracking mat in front of the litter box. We recommend the Litter Welcome Mat, which we have available for purchase at Paws Whiskers & Claws. Any litter that is on your cat's feet falls through the grid and into the mat; it's easy to clean and reduces the amount of litter tracked onto the floor. You can pour the tracked litter from the tray back into the litter box.

Replace litter boxes about every two years, or more frequently if the surfaces become deeply scratched or stained.

Cleaning Soiled Areas

If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat's delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.

There are many odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme cleaners tend to work the best. We recommend Urine Off or Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover. We have found these products to be quite effective when used as directed.

What If My Cat Starts Urinating or Defecating Outside the Litter Box?

There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:

      • Medical conditions,
      • Stress and inter-cat aggression,
      • Poor litter box logistics.

Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!

The first step is to take your cat to the veterinarian!

The most common reasons for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.

After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.

Read our handout "Coping with Inappropriate Elimination" for help in determining he cause of the problem and how to address it.

Photo property of Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline, LLC.