Dr. Stephanie Globerman - Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital
Georgia's premier cat hospital - servicing Marietta, Roswell, Sandy Springs, Atlanta, Vinings, Cumming, Alpharetta, Morningside, Smyrna
Made from nature's safest and most effective ingredients; extracts of herbs, fruits and cereal grains in pure deionized water. X-O neutralizes all odors, cleans hard and soft surfaces and has gentle cleaning action for perineal (their behind!) cleaning-that means this product is safe enough to use on your pet!
Declawing is a controversial procedure, and many myths surround declawing. It is important that you understand why cats scratch, what declawing does, and what a cat experiences as a result.
We know that it is unnecessary, and we prefer to educate our clients about feline scratching and how to stop inappropriate scratching behavior.
Declawing is the amputation of the first digit of each toe, comparable to taking off your fingers at the first knuckle. It is not a simple “nail” removal as the popular myth states.
It is an extremely painful procedure, and causes your cat great stress, not just right after surgery but also during the recuperation period and often for weeks and even months afterward.
If the procedure is not done correctly, the cat can lose part of her pads or, more commonly, there may be painful deformed re-growths that require additional surgery.
Declawing can result in medical, emotional, and behavioral problems. The effects may appear immediately, or may occur even years after the surgery.
Declawing is an unnecessary amputation that is illegal in many countries and is being outlawed in areas of the United States. Re-growths (explained above) can cause the cat so much pain that she is unable to walk or even stand. A cat bears about to 60% of her body weight on her front limbs. After declawing, she is forced to bear that weight on parts of her feet that are not intended to support her weight, so there can be bruising or lameness even years after surgery. We have seen cases where cats have had to undergo multiple “re-declaw” surgeries after experiencing re-growths on different toes at different times. Surgery is the only way to relieve their pain, which is similar to what you’d feel walking barefoot on broken glass.
Your cat may withdraw and go into hiding after this surgery. She will feel helpless because you have taken away her primary defense. A declawed cat may resort to biting because you’ve left her no other way to ward off an unwanted advance.
Declawing a cat can lead to numerous behavioral problems including litter aversion, aggression issues, and biting.
Even if you keep a declawed cat indoors, accidents happen: windows get left open, or a visitor leaves a door open… A declawed cat is in grave danger if she ever gets outside alone! Not only is she defenseless, but she is seriously hampered if she tries to catch something to eat. She’ll be unable to flee from dogs and other dangers by climbing.
Scratching is a normal feline behavior. There are many reasons why a cat may scratch, which include:
You can’t. It is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely. You can try to understand and meet their scratching needs so that they won’t damage your belongings.
Read our Feline Scratching Behavior handout for more information on how to focus your cat’s instinctive need to scratch in appropriate ways.
There are many reasons why cats scratch. We’ve explained some of the many reasons why declawing is not the answer to inappropriate scratching behavior.
The non-surgical alternatives are less expensive and less painful than declawing.
It’s never necessary to amputate her toes to stop your cat from inappropriate scratching!
If you feel that you must have a declawed cat, adopt a cat that has already been declawed.
If you still feel the need to declaw your cat, even after learning exactly what declawing is and how it can affect your cat for years to come, we strongly recommend that you consider finding another home for the cat. That way, she will not have her toes amputated, and won’t risk developing one of the many medical or behavioral problems that frequently result!
Your cat may need to receive subcutaneous fluids for various reasons: to keep her hydrated when she’s ill, to assist in recovery from injury or illness, to combat the effects of kidney disease, etc.
If this becomes necessary, we will teach you how to administer the fluids at home, or you can bring the cat in to the office and wait while we administer the fluids for you. The process takes only about 5 minutes.
It may seem daunting to think about inserting a needle into your cat to give fluids, but it’s actually a simple procedure that gets easier with practice. Detailed steps are described below, and our staff will give you a hands-on lesson. We have lots of tips to make it easy for you and your cat!
Watch this video to see how to insert a needle: Administering Subcutaneous Injections
The amount and frequency of fluids will be determined by your vet, and may be adjusted after periodic rechecks of your cat’s blood and/or urine.
You need a location where you can hang the bag of fluids. You can use a picture-hanger hook in the wall, or a coat hanger that can be hung anywhere, or some other method.The bag must behung at least a couple of feet above the cat.
You can try different ways to administer fluids. Some people sit on the floor with the kitty in their lap. Others like to work on a table or counter.Many people administer fluids in the bathroom because the countertop is at a convenient level,they can hang the bag easily, and they can close the door.Try different methods until you know what works best for you and your cat.
Watch here to see: How To Make Administering Fluids Positive.
You’ll need these items, which you can purchase from PWC:
You may also want to have some canned food or treats to keep the cat occupied and happy while you give fluids.If your cat is not food motivated, try brushing or some other form of positive reinforcement.
At this time, your veterinarian recommends the following:
Relax! If you’re nervous, your cat will notice and may become agitated.
Watch this video to see How To Set Up Sub Q Fluids
To make the experience more pleasant for your cat, feed her some canned food or treats while she's getting fluids or right afterward.She will learn to associate the procedure with something she enjoys!Don’t always insert the needle in the same spot on the cat; alternate between sides.
It may make your cat more comfortable if you warm the fluids first by immersing the bag (but do not immerse the needle) in hot water.You MUST TEST the fluid temperature on your skin(such as on the inside of your arm)before giving it to the cat so you don’t scald her!
If your cat is due for fluids and you notice that the fluids from the last treatment have not been absorbed,do not give more fluids! Call our office for instructions from the veterinarian the next business day.
If you ever notice your cat’s breathing is labored, do not give fluids. Call our office or the emergency clinic right away.
Remember to be calm when trying to medicate your cat. If you are stressed or your kitty is upset,take a break and try again later. Make sure to keep a supply of oral syringes, Science Diet a/d, Pill Pockets and even a pill gun on hand so that you have options.Lastly, remember to always reward your cat after administering any type of medication or treatment. You can reward with treats, playtime or affection and doing so will make your cat associate the meds time with something positive.
Revolution is the first-ever FDA-approved, topically applied medication for cats that kills adult fleas (Ctenocephalides felis) and prevents flea eggs from hatching, prevents heartworm disease caused by Dirofilaria immitis,treats and controls ear mites(Otodectes cynotis), treats and controls roundworms (Toxocara cati) and hookworms (Ancylostoma tubaeforme). Revolution enters the bloodstream through the skin. Concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissues prevent heartworm disease and prevent and treat roundworm and hookworm infections. Revolution selectively redistributes from the blood to the skin and other tissues, where it provides protection against fleas, flea eggs, and ear mites for one month. It is safe to use on cats that are at least 6 weeks old.
Frontline is another topically applied medication. One spot-on application kills fleas on cats for 4 weeks.After Frontline has been applied, it spreads to cover the entire body surface, and kills fleas by contact, which means they don't have to bite the animal to die. It is safe to use on cats that are over 8 weeks old.
Capstar is an oral insecticide. It is very fast acting - fleas start to die within 30 minutes of administration, and most are dead within 2-3 hours. Capstar is inexpensive,but unfortunately very short acting. After 24 hours, any fleas arriving on the animal may be unaffected. We use Capstar mainly as an adjunct to topical flea treatments. It is safe to use on cats that are both over 4 weeks old,and more than 2 pounds in weight.
Owner compliance is the best way to eradicate flea infestations. Be diligent with the treatment of all pets in the household, be fastidious about cleanliness and be persistent knowing that there is not a quick fix to a flea infestation.Prevention is the best medicine!
The saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies to litter boxes! Follow these simple rules to avoid many of the most common reasons for inappropriate elimination.
You need to consider the number, size, and type of boxes.
The basic rule is a minimum of one litter box per cat, plus one. That means if you have two cats, you should have at least three litter boxes. Many cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In a multi-level home, you should have at least one litter box on every floor.
When it comes to litter boxes, larger is better. Even the so-called large litter boxes sold in pet supply stores are too small for most cats. The litter box should be 1-1/2 times the length of your cat's body so that your cat has room to move around in the box and not have to step in soiled areas.
We recommend using large plastic storage bins instead of commercial litter boxes. You can cut an entrance on one side to provide easier access. The high sides of these bins help contain litter when the cat digs and covers. Some cats, especially older and arthritic cats, can't or don't squat to urinate, and may accidentally urinate or defecate over the side of a smaller box; these bins eliminate that problem.
Purchase clear or transparent bins, especially for multi-cat households. Cats are vulnerable when they are in the litter box, and it's important that they can see what's around them. You can bring us your own bin and we'll cut and sand the entrance for you for a minimal charge. If you decide to try cutting an opening on your own, you must use a Dermal Tool with a heavy duty reinforced cutting disk.
Placement of the litter boxes is extremely important. The litter box areas must be comfortable, convenient and safe.
If you have further questions or would like an evaluation of your litter box placement, please contact us.
Remember to offer unscented litter. Your cat's nose is quite literally at least 14 times more sensitive than yours. What smells "fresh" to you can be overwhelmingly strong to your cat, and may lead to litter box avoidance!
Most cats prefer clumping scoopable litter over clay litter. Brands of scoopable litter differ in texture; you can experiment a bit to find the texture or brand that you and your cat like. (However, once you find a litter your cats like, avoid changing brands because sudden change can be disruptive to your cats.) You must scoop out clumped waste daily.
We recommend Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract litter. It is a clumping, scoopable litter that tracks less that other clumping litters. Cats prefer the size and texture, as well as the natural herbal blend (the scent mimics the aroma of soil and plant materials). You can use Cat Attract Litter Additive to any brand of unscented litter. We also recommend Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Classic Unscented or Ultra Unscented litter.
A good alternative for geriatric or declawed cats is Exquisicat Advanced Scoop, which is a clumping paper litter with a soft airy texture.
If you notice that your cat doesn't bother to cover the urine or feces in the box, chances are she doesn't like the type of litter you are offering.
Clay litter box filler is recommended for kittens that might accidentally ingest the finer scoopable litter. You must empty, clean, and refill the box daily. We recommend the Publix brand clay litter.
Cats in the wild can chose from a wide variety of surfaces such as grass, pine straw, dirt, gravel, etc. You can provide options for your indoor cats too. While scoopable litter should be the filler in most boxes, you can offer alternate litter box filler in one or two boxes.
Some cats prefer using a puppy-training pad inside a regular litter box. The pads are available in any pet supply store. Cats may use them for urinating as well as defecating. Remove the soiled pad, wipe the box clean, and replace the pad whenever it is soiled. Puppy-training pads are a great option for cats that urinate excessively. Pads may also be preferred by declawed and arthritic cats.
Strange as it may seem, some cats prefer an empty litter box. They may not like the feel of anything under their feet except the smooth plastic box.
Avoid alternate litter box fillers that have a strong odor, such as cedar or citrus- scented litter or recycled newspaper pellets.
If you're using clay litter, you must empty, clean, and refill the litter boxes daily. Don't just scoop out the solid waste and stir up the wet litter; it may look better to you, but all you've done is spread the urine throughout the box soiling the entire box and making it offensive for your cat to step in.
If you're using scoopable litter, scoop each litter box at least once daily. Add fresh litter as needed to replace the soiled litter that was removed.
Empty and thoroughly clean scoopable litter boxes at least every 1-2 months. Use soap and water and be sure to remove all traces of litter and soil, and then disinfect the box with a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse the box thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach!
Keep the area around the litter boxes clean. You can place the litter boxes on a plastic runner, a vinyl tablecloth, or a short-knapped bath mat. These can be cleaned easily by shaking them outside or laundering them.
You can place a tracking mat in front of the litter box. We recommend the Litter Welcome Mat, which we have available for purchase at Paws Whiskers & Claws. Any litter that is on your cat's feet falls through the grid and into the mat; it's easy to clean and reduces the amount of litter tracked onto the floor. You can pour the tracked litter from the tray back into the litter box.
Replace litter boxes about every two years, or more frequently if the surfaces become deeply scratched or stained.
If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat's delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.
There are many odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme cleaners tend to work the best. We recommend Urine Off or Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover. We have found these products to be quite effective when used as directed.
There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:
Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!
The most common reasons for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.
After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.
Read our handout "Coping with Inappropriate Elimination" for help in determining he cause of the problem and how to address it.
Photo property of Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline, LLC.
It’s a familiar dilemma for many cat-lovers: we want to rescue homeless and abandoned cats,but we can’t always keep them! Here are some tips to help you find a good home for a stray cat.
Please note: Paws Whiskers & Claws doesnot accept cats for adoption.
The sad fact is that almost 80% of cats do not stay with their first owner beyond two years. Shelters usually have fewer strays than animals that have been turned-in by former owners. The reasons for giving up a pet vary, but often include allergies, moving,childbirth, and behavior problems. The good news is that you don’t have to give up the cat in order to address these (and other)issues! If your cat has a medical or behavioral problem, call us for behavioral advice or to set up an appointment.
If you or a family member has an allergy problem, consult a pet-friendly allergy specialist, who will work with you to manage the allergies and allow you to keep your cat.
Don’t assume that a wandering animal is homeless, or that she has an uncaring owner. Even careful and loving owners sometimes lose a pet. If the stray comes to you willingly and seems friendly, it may be someone’s missing pet. Most cats don’t stray far, so ask neighbors whether they recognize the cat. Call local shelters and ask whether they have reports of a missing pet. Check the Lost and Found ads. Have the stray checked for a microchip ID.
If the cat’s owner cannot be found, your next task is to find her a new home.
The first priority is to keep both the stray cat and your pets safe until you can find a new home for the stray. If you have other pets, keep the stray separate from them to avoid spreading disease or parasites. Maybe you can keep the stray in a small room or a bathroom. Donot allow your pets to share the stray’s dishes or litter box. If you cannot keep the cat for a few days, ask a friend to foster the cat for you, or board the cat at an appropriate facility. (Be sure to ask whether there’s a discount for rescued strays!)
It will be easier to place the stray if you can have a vet examine and vaccinate her, and test for FIV and FeLV. If the cat hasn’t been spayed or neutered,consider having that done; there are low-cost spay/neuter programs that can help with the cost. Socialize the stray as much as possible; visit and play with her, and get her used to being petted and brushed.
Print a flyer with a picture of the cat and your contact information. Tell a little about the cat (she’s playful, she’s quiet,she likes children, she doesn’t like dogs,etc.) and provide any medical information you have (whether she’s been spayed,vaccinated, etc.), and why you need to place her. See the sample on page 4.
Place an ad in local newspapers, including the small weekly news sheets; many offer free “found” ads. Post signs in your neighborhood. Put a notice in your neighborhood newsletter. Ask to place a flyer in veterinarians’ offices and pet supply stores. Post a notice on the bulletin board at your office, your gym, your church, and anywhere else you can think of. Use the Internet! You can place notices on community lists and chat rooms. Many people prefer to adopt cats from private homes rather than from shelters, but you need to reach them!
Talk to friends, neighbors, family members, co-workers, the clerk at the grocery store, and so on. The more people you talk to, the better the chances that you’ll find someone who will provide a great home for the cat. Keep a couple of flyers with you at all times so you can give one to anybody who expresses interest.
You may be tempted to give the stray to the first person who calls – but please don’t! Carefully screen the callers until you’re sure that you’ve found a good home. Remember that the cat’s life depends on your decision. It is better to mistakenly turn down a good home than to put the cat into a bad home. You need to make sure that the person is willing and able to take on the expense and responsibility of owning a cat.
Ask to see where the cat will be living. Check the condition of other animals in the home to verify that they are well cared-for. Ask what happened to the person’s previous pets. Does the potential adopter have a vet? Does the person understand the necessity of vaccines and annual exams? Will the cat be fed a high-quality diet? Will she be kept safely indoors? Does the prospective owner understand the dangers of declawing or the harmful results of not spaying and neutering?
Do not give the cat away for free. People who are willing to pay something for a pet are more likely to be serious about caring for it. Sad to say, there are also people out there who gather free animals for medical experiments, or worse.
Contact the no-kill shelters and rescue organizations in your area and ask whether they can accept the stray. It is important to verify that it is a no-kill shelter, meaning that they will keep the stray until she is adopted. (Other shelters will often euthanize an animal within a few days.) No-kill shelters are usually full, and you may have to place your stray on a waiting list.
You can find the names and phone numbers of local shelters in the phone book,often under the name of the county where you live.
There’s lots of information on the Internet about shelters and rescue organizations. Also refer to the Resources section below. Remember that Website addresses may change, so try using a search engine to locate groups and shelters in your area.
Keep in mind that there are far too many homeless pets and too few people willing to help place them. If you don’t immediately get a return call from a rescue organization, try again. These hard-working animal-lovers are doing their best, but there are only so many hours in a day!
Many organizations run weekend adoption events at stores such as Petsmart.There may be a waiting list to get your stray into one of these adoption events.Many of these organizations need volunteers; perhaps you can offer to help staff an adoption event in exchange for bringing your stray cat for adoption. These organizations may also have names of possible foster parents.
It often takes time to place a stray cat into a new home. There are just too many homeless animals and too few homes. Keep at it until your stray cat has a suitable forever-home.
And if you decide you can squeeze one more stray into your home and your heart, so much the better! That leaves a potential home for another stray kitty!Contact us for free advice on how to integrate the new cat into your household,or download information from our Web site.
Seeking a great home for a special cat!
This handsome five-year-old gray tabby was found wandering along a busy road. We would love to keep him, but our lease limits us to the two cats we already have, so we need to find him a new home quickly.
He has been examined by a vet, vaccinated, and tested for FIV and FeLV(both negative). Other than being a little thin, he’s in good health. He hasbeen neutered and treated for flea and heartworm prevention.
He is friendly and likes to play and cuddle. He seems a bit scared of children, so he’d probably be happier in a home with adults. He gets along with dogs and other cats, and enjoys watching our Video Catnip DVD!
If you’re interested in adopting this kitty, please call 770-555-1234 or send an e-mail message to <myaddy@isp.com>. Adoption fee and interview required.
Here at Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital we are advocates of cats being kept indoors. Indoor only cats live longer, healthier lives and have less risk of disease, injury or getting lost or stolen. Should you decide to give your cat supervised access to the outdoors, we recommend using a leash and harness or outdoor enclosure and making sure your cat has proper identification in the form of a microchip and a collar and tag. All cats, especially those with access to the outdoors should also be on heartworm and flea prevention. The following is a list of risks facing free roaming cats and the families that love them.
What is the upside of being encouraged to roam the neighborhood? Life is more interesting outdoors. Far more dangerous too. Nothing listed above is opinion - it is all fact. We know these are real threats to cats allowed to wander outside. We just don't know exactly how often they occur. We know most of these things can't happen to indoor cats. Please reference our Environmental Enrichment handout for ideas on keeping your cat active, stimulated and happy within the safety of your home.
Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline
Cat owners often become understandably frustrated when their cat begins to urinate or defecate outside the litter box. Nearly 1 cat in 10 will have an inappropriate elimination problem in her lifetime.
There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:
Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!
The first step is to take the cat to your veterinarian! The most common reason for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.
After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.
Do not punish the cat or confine her to just one room. Some people think they can “re-train” the cat in that way, but it doesn’t work! Cats aren’t trained to use a litter box; they use it instinctively. Confining the cat to one room will increase her frustration and stress level, but it won’t solve the problem!
Your cat may have a urinary tract infection, urinary crystals, bladder stones,or external infections such as urethritis or vaginitis. It could even be pain caused by a seemingly unrelated problem such as an abscessed tooth or arthritis.
Why? If your cat feels pain or discomfort when she uses the litter box, she doesn’t understand that the pain is coming from her kidneys or broken tooth, or whatever the cause. She just knows that litterbox=pain, so she’ll try try to find another place to eliminate, hoping that will make the pain end. But urinating on the bedroom carpet doesn’t ease her pain either, so she tries another spot, and the cycle continues!
You may even need to change the look, feel, or location of the litter box after the medical problem is resolved to encourage your cat to use the litter box again.
Other medical problems that may be associated with inappropriate elimination:
Appropriate treatment of the underlying medical condition may end your cat’s inappropriate elimination. If not, it’s time to examine other possible causes.
Yes, cats can get stressed, and they may show their distress by urinating or defecating outside the litter box.
Stress can come from changes in your household: moving, the birth of a child, the addition of another pet,etc. These stresses may cause not only litter box problems, but they may aggravate existing medical conditions.
When possible, introduce changes grad ually, and allow the cat to explore new people and things at her own pace.
You can help your cat cope by providing a “safe room” for your cat – a place where she can go to escape the stress. The safe room must have food,water, litter boxes, a comfortable kitty bed, and some toys. Put a baby gate in the doorway to discourage unwanted visitors. Introduce the cat to the saferoom, but you don’t need to confine her there; let her use it when she feels the need.
Cat condos and cat trees are important to stress management. A tall sturdy cat tree gives your cat a secure perch from which to view what’s going on,and it gives her a place to escape. This is particularly important if you have small children, dogs, or multiple cats. The height offers your cat safety and a feeling of control. It is especially comforting to them if they can view multiple rooms from a single vantage point.
Consider using Feliway, which is a synthetic product that mimics feline facial pheromones and helps a cat feel at ease.It is available in a spray as well as an electric diffuser.
We offer behavioral counseling and a variety of educational handouts that may help you make your cat more content and less stressed
One cause of stress is aggression between cats in a multi-cat household. You can greatly reduce this aggression by providing plenty of litter boxes as well as multiple food and water dishes. It is important that the cats don’t have to compete for too few bowls and boxes! Place feeding stations and litter boxes throughout your home; don’t concentrate them in one area! Cats are at their most vulnerable when they are eliminating, and so it’s vital to make sure that they feel safe in the litter box and won’t be ambushed by other cats, the family dog, or a curious toddler!
Feliway (described above) can help with aggression issues.You can also call us to discuss other behavior modification options, including medication.
Remember that cat trees and cat condos are important to multi-cat households. They help cats establish a hierarchy, which is important to their group dynamic.
There are several factors to consider, including the number and size of boxes, location, type, litter box filler,etc. Inappropriate elimination could be the result of having too few litter boxes,using the wrong size or type of box,placing the boxes in appropriate locations, or using the wrong litter box filler.
Please read our Litter Box Facts handout for detailed information on maintaining your cats’ litter boxes.
If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat’s delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.
Sometimes the best solution is to give the cat what she seems to be asking for: place a litter box in the area where she’s eliminating! If you don’t want to leave the litter box there permanently, we will advise you on how to gradually move the litter box into a more acceptable location after your cat uses that litter box consistently for several weeks.
There are several odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme-based cleaners tend to work the best. The product that we recommend most frequently is Urine Off. We also suggest Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover.
You can also make the soiled are less attractive to your cat:
Call us for additional ideas about deterrents!
Sometimes a cat will continue to soil an area that has been thoroughly cleaned.
Why? The cat apparently feels a need to mark that spot. Every time you remove the scent marking, your cat may be compelled to mark the area again.
When that happens, you can try a different approach. Instead of using enzyme cleaner, clean the area with plain water, then spray the area with Feliway. You won’t smell urine, but your cat may be satisfied that the area is still marked, and not need to mark it again. Use Feliway on the area; the Feliway encourages facial marking and reduces the chance that the cat will spray urine there again.
Spray Feliway on the area twice a day (every 12 hours) for the first 4 weeks,then once daily for another 4 weeks.
Note that the enzyme cleaner breaks down the pheromones in Feliway,making it ineffective, so don’t use enzyme cleaner on surfaces marked with Feliway.
