Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital

Georgia's premier cat hospital - servicing Marietta, Roswell, Sandy Springs, Atlanta, Vinings, Cumming, Alpharetta, Morningside, Smyrna

(770) 579-6001

4719 Lower Roswell Road, Suite 220
Marietta, Georgia, 30068

Food Rewards Suitable for Training and Medicating

Cats are trainable and can be quite easy to medicate. It is all about finding something that motivates them to make it worth their while. The key to this being successful is keeping the reward novel; do not burn them out on it. Humans struggle with this part. Be stingy with your rewards and before you know it your cat will be doing all kinds of tricks like sit, hi-five, and even riding a skateboard! Not to mention eating their pills willingly! That's right, just take a look at the photos below to see how many cats can be trained to come to you at meds time.

Meats:

Canned cat food-generally something different than you offer each day

Hill’s a/d, Royal Canin Recovery, Purina CN (these Rx diets are ultra hi-calorie and should only be used for medicating & positive reinforcement)

Single ingredient, plain meat human baby food (ham, chicken, beef, turkey) NO onions!

Broths-chicken and beef broth (low/no sodium), tuna, oyster or clam juice

Deli meat, boiled chicken, sardines, salmon, SPAM! (yes, Spam)

Dairy: *most cats are lactose intolerant-use sparingly*

Milk, cream, heavy whipping cream, whipped cream cheese, yogurt, vanilla ice cream, cheese (any version), squeeze cheese, sour cream, and the like

Outside the box ideas:

Mini marshmallows (they make a great pill pocket)

Banana or Peanut Butter

Davis learned how to ride a skateboard being rewarded with delicious treats.
Davis learned how to ride a skateboard being rewarded with delicious treats.
Did you ever think that your cats would be eager for their medications?
Did you ever think that your cats would be eager for their medications?
Cats of various ages on different meds but all enthusiastic for meds time!
Cats of various ages on different meds but all enthusiastic for meds time!

Traditional cat treats:

Freeze dried meat treats (Purebites-chicken & turkey or Halo’s Liv-a-littles)

Greenie’s dental treats or Greenie’s Smartbites

Temptations, Pounce, Whisker Lickin’s, Party Mix (considered junk food and a last resort for sick old seniors that need medications).

Any dry food other than their regular dry food can also be a treat.

*always check with your veterinarian first

Need More Help?

Watch this video for more medicating tips!

Medicating Tips
Cats are VERY trainable, but ya gotta pay 'em!
Cats are VERY trainable, but ya gotta pay 'em!
Get them accustomed to the routine young, BEFORE they need daily meds.
Get them accustomed to the routine young, BEFORE they need daily meds.
Davis giving Ingrid a Hi- Five!
Davis giving Ingrid a Hi- Five!

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Cat Food Recommendations

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ANYTHING by Hill’s Science Diet, Hill’s Ideal Balance, Royal Canin

Canned – some varieties to look for:

Hill’s Science Diet

  • Adult Maintenance 1-6 years - Pate (chicken, ocean fish, beef, turkey, salmon, liver and chicken, turkey and liver)
  • Adult Grain Free – Pate (any flavor)
  • Perfect Weight – Pate (any flavor)
  • Tender Dinners - Chunks in Gravy (chicken, tuna, ocean fish)
  • Hairball Control - Pate (chicken, seafood)
  • Adult Indoor - Pate (chicken, seafood)
  • Homestyle Suppers - Chunks in Gravy (chicken, tuna)
  • Healthy Cuisine – Pieces in sauce (chicken, salmon and tuna)

Hill's_Science_Diet_logo

Royal Canin

  • Instinctive, Spayed/Neutered, Intense Beauty, Digest Sensitive, Ultra Light - Some are pieces in gravy, some are minced/pate, some both varieties. None have specific flavors.
Royal_Canin_logo.svg

DRY – some varieties to look for:

Hill’s Science Diet

  • Oral Care
  • Hairball Control
  • Optimal Care

Royal Canin

  • Oral Care
  • Spayed/Neutered
    Selective –Protein, Aromatic, Savor

Declawing



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Declawing is a controversial procedure, and many myths surround declawing. It is important that you understand why cats scratch, what declawing does, and what a cat experiences as a result.

Paws Whiskers & Claws does not declaw!

We know that it is unnecessary, and we prefer to educate our clients about feline scratching and how to stop inappropriate scratching behavior.

What is declawing?

Declawing is the amputation of the first digit of each toe, comparable to taking off your fingers at the first knuckle. It is not a simple “nail” removal as the popular myth states.

It is an extremely painful procedure, and causes your cat great stress, not just right after surgery but also during the recuperation period and often for weeks and even months afterward.

If the procedure is not done correctly, the cat can lose part of her pads or, more commonly, there may be painful deformed re-growths that require additional surgery.

What is the effect of declawing on a cat?

Declawing can result in medical, emotional, and behavioral problems. The effects may appear immediately, or may occur even years after the surgery.

Medical issues:

Declawing is an unnecessary amputation that is illegal in many countries and is being outlawed in areas of the United States. Re-growths (explained above) can cause the cat so much pain that she is unable to walk or even stand. A cat bears about to 60% of her body weight on her front limbs. After declawing, she is forced to bear that weight on parts of her feet that are not intended to support her weight, so there can be bruising or lameness even years after surgery. We have seen cases where cats have had to undergo multiple “re-declaw” surgeries after experiencing re-growths on different toes at different times. Surgery is the only way to relieve their pain, which is similar to what you’d feel walking barefoot on broken glass.

Emotional issues:

Your cat may withdraw and go into hiding after this surgery. She will feel helpless because you have taken away her primary defense. A declawed cat may resort to biting because you’ve left her no other way to ward off an unwanted advance.

Behavioral issues:

Declawing a cat can lead to numerous behavioral problems including litter aversion, aggression issues, and biting.

  • Litter box aversion occurs because the cat must stand in litter and bear weight on her mutilated toes, so she may associate pain with the litter box. Although many veterinarians recommend using soft litters or shredded newspaper after surgery, this does not necessarily prevent infection or pain associated with use of the litter box. Many of the cats we see with behavioral litter box aversion problems are declawed.
  • Another serious consequence of declawing is aggression. Declawed cats that we see at our hospital tend to be more aggressive, most likely because they associate their painful feet with a visit to the vet. These cats are often highly fractious and difficult to manage, even for our well-trained staff. You may incur additional expenses related to this behavior, such as sedation before your cat can be examined or treated. These cats are so terrified that they will use every defense mechanism they have remaining. Unfortunately, many owners and even some vets mistake a cat’s fear for being “mean”, and their subsequent handling of the cat merely reinforces their fear.Often expectant parents are concerned about their cat possibly scratching a child. A cat will only scratch a human if provoked by fear or pain. If you teach the child how to touch the cat appropriately, and provide safe areas where the cat can escape the grasping hands of the child, the cat will not injure your child.
  • A cat’s first line of defense is her claws. When that option is taken away, she must resort to biting. Anyone who works with cats will tell you that a scratch is preferable to a bite wound any day! A bite is more dangerous due to the risk of serious infection.

Even if you keep a declawed cat indoors, accidents happen: windows get left open, or a visitor leaves a door open… A declawed cat is in grave danger if she ever gets outside alone! Not only is she defenseless, but she is seriously hampered if she tries to catch something to eat. She’ll be unable to flee from dogs and other dangers by climbing.

Why do cats scratch?

Scratching is a normal feline behavior. There are many reasons why a cat may scratch, which include:

  • Marking: cats have scent glands in the pads of their feet and they scratch to leave scent marks. They often do this to mark the belongings you share, such as the sofa.
  • Shedding the outer sheaths of the nail: a cat’s nails grow in layers (like an onion) and they need to scratch to shed the outer nail sheath, or the nail could continue to grow into the foot pad.
  • Relieving stress or frustration: some cats may increase their marking (such as scratching and urine marking) when they are anxious.
  • Stretching: watch how your cat s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-s as she scratches to flex her spine.
  • Exuberance: sometimes your cat scratches just because it feels good!

How can I stop my cat from scratching?

You can’t. It is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely. You can try to understand and meet their scratching needs so that they won’t damage your belongings.

Read our Feline Scratching Behavior handout for more information on how to focus your cat’s instinctive need to scratch in appropriate ways.

Myths about Declawing

I have to declaw my cat because she’s damaging the furniture.
Cats will scratch; it’s part of their nature. The key is to provide alternative scratching areas. Good scratching posts, made with the right material, placed in the right locations, are more attractive to your cat than scratching the furniture.
My other cat is declawed.
Indoor cats rarely use their claws on each other, so your declawed cat should not have problems with another cat that still has claws. For example, look at the dozens of cats that live together at cage-free shelters. Most of those cats have claws, but some do not, and they all get along just fine.
I don’t want my cat to scratch the children.
Cats are no more likely to scratch a child than they are to scratch another cat: it won’t happen unless the cat is provoked. Teach your children how to gently pet and play with the cat, and how to watch for signs that the cat is getting over-stimulated or stressed. Keep the cat’s nails trimmed! It’s easy, it’s painless, and it can help to avoid accidental scratches and hurt feelings. Remember that a scratch wound is far less serious than a bite wound, but a declawed cat has only one choice for defense!
What about a tendonectomy?
Tendonectomy involves severing the tendons to the cat’s toes so she can’t control her claws. There is a high rate of complications, you still need to trim the cat’s claws, and the cat can still claw to some extent. This is not an acceptable option.
My family doctor said that getting scratched could be dangerous.
Doctors often raise the issue of cats scratching when a person has a blood clotting disorder or certain other diseases. Often the doctor is uninformed about the reasons why a cat might scratch and unaware that a more-dangerous bite is more likely to occur if the cat is declawed. Most cat scratches are not deep enough to pose a problem even to a person who is taking blood thinners. With reasonable care, you can safely co-exist with your cat and her claws, as some of our clients have shown.

Resources

  • The sisal-weave posts available at our hospital work better than any other post that we have seen. They are designed to meet your cat’s needs for a tall, sturdy scratching post, and are meticulously hand-crafted.
  • We offer free nail trims any time, no appointment necessary. We can also teach you how to trim your cat’s nails. Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed will minimize damage done if your cat occasionally strays from the post.
  • Read our Feline Scratching Behavior handout to learn about selecting and placing scratching posts, and other related information.
  • As a last resort, we offer a product called Soft Paws. They are plastic caps you put on the tips of a cat’s nails using a non-toxic adhesive. You may call us for more information about this product, but most clients find this alternative to be tedious and unnecessary. The caps can pop off, and they need to be reattached periodically as the cat’s claws grow. Cats sometimes find it frustrating to have the nail caps glued on, because their nature tells them to remove the outer nail sheath. Soft Paws are a temporary fix because they will not change the cat’s behavior, they just curb the destruction.

The bottom line

There are many reasons why cats scratch. We’ve explained some of the many reasons why declawing is not the answer to inappropriate scratching behavior.

The non-surgical alternatives are less expensive and less painful than declawing.

It’s never necessary to amputate her toes to stop your cat from inappropriate scratching!

If you feel that you must have a declawed cat, adopt a cat that has already been declawed.

If you still feel the need to declaw your cat, even after learning exactly what declawing is and how it can affect your cat for years to come, we strongly recommend that you consider finding another home for the cat. That way, she will not have her toes amputated, and won’t risk developing one of the many medical or behavioral problems that frequently result!

How to get Your Cat to Drink Water



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  1. Canned food is an excellent way to encourage water consumption, because it is high in water content and most cats love the taste. It can be warmed up in the microwave to enhance its smell. We recommend feeding canned food one or two times a day in addition to freely fed dry food. You can also add water to the canned food.
  2. If your cat prefers to drink from a tap, make sure she can always get to the tap-don’t lock her out of the bathroom if that is where she likes to drink. If your schedule permits, turn the tap on for your cat as often as possible throughout the day.Do not allow your cat (or dog) to drink from the toilet-chemical residue can be toxic!Water fountains can be purchased for cats that like fresh flowing water
  3. Provide fresh water every day. Cats are very aware of the temperature and taste of water.
  4. Make sure the water bowl is filled to the brim at all times. Cats have very sensitive whiskers and do not like putting their face into a bowl; a wider bowl may be necessary.
  5. Some cats do not like the taste of tap water. You might wish to try:
    1. Refrigerating the tap water to improve its taste
    2. Filtered water (Brita or Pur home filters are widely available)
    3. Distilled waterd.Bottled water
    4. Bottled water
  6. Some cats will drink more water if a drop or two of tuna juice is added. If you try this, always make sure a separate bowl of fresh water is available. You can try adding clam juice instead of tuna.
  7. Some cats enjoy ice cubes made from flavored broth. You can make a broth by simmering 6 oz of tuna or salmon mixed with 2 cups of water for 10 minutes.Strain the mixture through cheesecloth and pour into ice cube trays.
  8. Keep the food and water bowls away from litter box areas.
  9. Keep the water bowl clean. Cats have a keen sense of smell and are easily turned off by odors on the edge of the bowl. Stainless steel or glass dishes are easier to keep clean and odor free vs. plastic dishes. Some cats seem to prefer a clear shallow glass bowl from which to drink. Experiment with different water bowls.Water bowls should be washed daily.
  10. If your cat tends to tip the water bowl over, weigh down the bowl by placing a large stone that has been thoroughly washed into it, or try a commercially available weighted or tip-free bowl.

Subcutaneous Fluids Administration



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Your cat may need to receive subcutaneous fluids for various reasons: to keep her hydrated when she’s ill, to assist in recovery from injury or illness, to combat the effects of kidney disease, etc.

If this becomes necessary, we will teach you how to administer the fluids at home, or you can bring the cat in to the office and wait while we administer the fluids for you. The process takes only about 5 minutes.

It may seem daunting to think about inserting a needle into your cat to give fluids, but it’s actually a simple procedure that gets easier with practice. Detailed steps are described below, and our staff will give you a hands-on lesson. We have lots of tips to make it easy for you and your cat!

Watch this video to see how to insert a needle:  Administering Subcutaneous Injections

The amount and frequency of fluids will be determined by your vet, and may be adjusted after periodic rechecks of your cat’s blood and/or urine.

Location

You need a location where you can hang the bag of fluids. You can use a picture-hanger hook in the wall, or a coat hanger that can be hung anywhere, or some other method.The bag must behung at least a couple of feet above the cat.

You can try different ways to administer fluids. Some people sit on the floor with the kitty in their lap. Others like to work on a table or counter.Many people administer fluids in the bathroom because the countertop is at a convenient level,they can hang the bag easily, and they can close the door.Try different methods until you know what works best for you and your cat.

Watch here to see:  How To Make Administering Fluids Positive.

Supplies

You’ll need these items, which you can purchase from PWC:

  • Bag of fluids(saline or Lactated Ringers solution)
  • Line(1 line can be used for 2 bags of fluids; then replace it)
  • Needles (a new needle each time you give fluids)

You may also want to have some canned food or treats to keep the cat occupied and happy while you give fluids.If your cat is not food motivated, try brushing or some other form of positive reinforcement.

Details

At this time, your veterinarian recommends the following:

Amount of fluid to give:
____________________________
How often and when:
________________________________
Date of first recheck:
________________________________

Instructions

Relax! If you’re nervous, your cat will notice and may become agitated.

Watch this video to see How To Set Up Sub Q Fluids

  1. Attach the line to the bag. Remember that both ends of the line are sterile;don't touch them or let them fall to any surface.
  2. Attach the needle (still covered) to the end of the line. Hang the bag as high as you can.Squeeze the reservoir at the top of the line until it is half full offluids.If you squeeze too much, turnthe bag upside-down and squeeze the reservoir until it is half full again.
  3. Run a stream of fluids through the line to remove all the air from the line. You are now ready to administer subcutaneous fluids to your cat.There are 1000mLs in each bag and the numbers indicate the amount of fluid remaining in the bag.Each number on the bag represents 100 mL and each mark between represents 50mLs. Before you start, check the amount of fluid in the bag to determine where you should stop. For example,if the level is at 300mL and your cat gets 150mL every day, you’d stop the flow when the level of fluids gets down to the mark between 4 and 5 (the 450mL level). Note: From the 9 to the bottom of the bag equals 100mL.
  4. Position the cat on a table or countertop,on your lap or on the floor next to you.
  5. Remove the needle cap and set it aside.Using the three finger method pull out a pocket of skin on one side of the cat, in front of the hip.Insert the needle into the skin pocket.Do not push the needle all the way through the skin pocket.
    • Insert the needle parallel to the cat’s body, not pointed toward the body.
    • Point the tip of the needle toward the cat’s head; if the cat runs away , the needle will fall out without tearing the skin.
    • You can also administer the fluids in the scruff of the neck. This is useful if the cat is squirmy and there is no one to help hold your cat
  6. With your thumb, spin the roller on the line flow control mechanism up to start the flow of fluid.
    • Look at the reservoir to make sure the fluid is flowing and not just dripping slowly. If it is dripping, pull the skin slightly forward,away from the needle,in case the skin was against the end of the needle, preventing a steady flow.Also check that the line is not crimped.
  7. After the correct amount of fluids have been administered,stop the flow by spinning the roller on the flow control mechanism down with your thumb.
  8. Pull the needle out of the skin pocket . You can pinch the skin slightly at the needle entry point in order to slow leakage before the skin seals itself.However, some leakage will occur;this is normal,so don't be alarmed. You may also see some blood or blood-tinged fluid leak out ; you may have nicked a tiny vessel in the skin. This will heal quickly on its own and is also normal.
  9. Put a new, sterile needle on the line, give your cat a kiss, and you're done until next time!Be sure to place the cap back on the used needle and dispose of it properly.

To make the experience more pleasant for your cat, feed her some canned food or treats while she's getting fluids or right afterward.She will learn to associate the procedure with something she enjoys!Don’t always insert the needle in the same spot on the cat; alternate between sides.

It may make your cat more comfortable if you warm the fluids first by immersing the bag (but do not immerse the needle) in hot water.You MUST TEST the fluid temperature on your skin(such as on the inside of your arm)before giving it to the cat so you don’t scald her!

Caution:

If your cat is due for fluids and you notice that the fluids from the last treatment have not been absorbed,do not give more fluids! Call our office for instructions from the veterinarian the next business day.

Caution:

If you ever notice your cat’s breathing is labored, do not give fluids. Call our office or the emergency clinic right away.

Medicating Your Cat



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Pill Pockets:
Pill Pockets are a soft chew with a hollow center with room for a pill inside. We recommend giving them to your cat as a treat first, get your cat hooked, then spike one with the pill. They are available in chicken or salmon flavor. Pill Pockets also make great treats for healthy cats knowing they will likely need a pill at some point in the future.
Flavor Doh:
Flavor Doh is a tub of flavored moldable dough-similar to Pill Pockets-but you use only what you need to cover the pill or capsule completely.This option allows you to hide larger pills or capsules. It is available in chicken or fish flavor.
Baby Food:
Cats love single ingredient human baby food! Try crushing the tablet and mixing into a teaspoon of baby food. Make sure that there are no other ingredients such as onion powder as they can be harmful to your cat. We recommend Gerber 2nd stage Chicken and Gravy, Turkey and Gravy or Beef and Gravy.
Tuna Water:
Tuna meat is not good for your cat, but the water that is poured off the can is a great medicating tool. Simply crush the tablet and mix into the tuna water.You can also mix liquid medication into tuna water to ease administration.
Canned Cat Food:
Many medications can be disguised in your cat’s favorite canned food, or you may choose to use a canned food that is different from what they get each day so that it is special and they only get a small amount at meds time.
Kitty Burrito:
If your cat tries to push your hand away with her paw, try wrapping her in a kitty burrito. Place your cat in the center of a towel and wrap one side at a time over her,leaving only her head sticking out. Make sure it is not too tight around the neck, but tight enough so she can’t get her paws out. Ask us for a demonstration, or view this technique online at the website listed at the end of this handout.
Pill Gun:
A pill gun is a plastic rod with a little rubber cup on the end that holds the pill until the plunger is pressed. It is helpful to use a pill gun if your cat tends to clench their jaw or bite when being pilled.The pill gun can be used either with the scruffing technique or the check bone technique as shown at the website listed at the end of this handout.
Be prepared:
Try keeping medications and supplies in an area where you already spend time with your cat. Keeping things at home as routine as possible will make it easy for you and less stressful for your cat.This will also often times prevent your cat from “catching on” and hiding from you at meds time.
Ask For Options:
If you are having trouble medicating your cat, don’t give up. Ask if there are other options available. Some tablets are available in a liquid form and there are compounding pharmacies that may be able to offer you flavored chewable treats or,in rare instances,a transdermal gel that is simply rubbed on the skin.If you’re struggling to administer necessary medications, our staff offers “pilling” lessons and there may be a pet sitter in your area that can come by and help.

Oral Syringe Parfait:

  • Using a 6ml and a 3ml oral medicating syringe and some soft canned food, preferably Science Diet a/d or baby food, draw up 3mls of food in the 3ml syringe.
  • Completely pull out the plunger of the 6ml syringe.
  • Place the full 3ml syringe down inside the 6ml and express the food,withdrawing the 3ml syringe as you go. This creates a foundation of food at the tip of the 6ml syringe.
  • Place any liquid or crushed medication inside the 6ml syringe.
  • Place 2mls of food on top of the medication using the 3ml syringe.You are now done with the 3ml syringe.
  • Your syringe should now be layered food/medication/food.
  • Place the 6ml plunger back into the barrel of the 6ml syringe. A little food-about 1/2ml-will push out of the tip of the 6ml syringe, which is the purpose for putting such a large amount of food in first.
  • Now you are ready to give this mixture to your cat. If your cat does not like it as a treat, simply syringe into their mouth using the technique described in the video link below.

Remember to be calm when trying to medicate your cat. If you are stressed or your kitty is upset,take a break and try again later. Make sure to keep a supply of oral syringes, Science Diet a/d, Pill Pockets and even a pill gun on hand so that you have options.Lastly, remember to always reward your cat after administering any type of medication or treatment. You can reward with treats, playtime or affection and doing so will make your cat associate the meds time with something positive.

 

Flea Fundamentals

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I have fleas! What should I do?

  • DO – Treat all pets in the household with a topical flea treatment such as Revolution or Frontline.
  • DO – Flea comb your pets to remove flea “dirt” as well as live fleas while monitoring progress of treatment.
  • DO – Vacuum! All carpeted or upholstered areas, furniture, mattresses, cracks and crevices around base boards and cat furniture/scratching posts.Discard your vacuum bag or contents of your vacuum canister immediately outside the home so fleas do not crawl back out.
  • DO – Laundry! Launder all throw rugs, bath mats, pet bedding and your bedding. Fleas drown in hot, soapy water. Fleas drown in soapy water.
  • DO – Treat your home. 95% of flea stages are in your environment. Your pets act as a “salt shaker” dispersing eggs everywhere your pet goes in the home. These eggs can survive up to a full year in your carpet, resulting in constant re-infestation if left untreated. If you prefer to do it yourself, we offer Flea Stoppers powder or also check out Flea Busters, both products are safe and effective.
  • DO – Deworm your cat for tapeworms. Cats groom and ingest fleas, eggs and larvae causing tapeworms in the intestinal tract. Deworming should be given when fleas are discovered and again once fleas have been eliminated.
  • DO – Be aware that fleas may cause illness in your pet such as infectious anemia, bartonella (catscratch disease) or flea allergy dermatitis (FAD).
  • DO – Make sure that any pet visiting your home, even for a few minutes, has been properly treated for fleas. Many infestations occur after family or friends have visited your home with their unprotected pet.
  • DO – Treat your car, especially if your pets travel with you.

I have fleas! What should I not do?

  • DON’T – Treat your pet with grocery store brand topical treatments. These products can be toxic to cats, causing kidney failure, allergic reactions, seizures, coma or even death.
  • DON’T – Use flea collars, sprays, or flea powders.In addition to not being very effective, these products can be toxic to cats, causing kidney failure, allergic reactions,seizures, coma or even death. The best place for a flea collar is inside your vacuum bag or canister!
  • DON’T – Use flea shampoos,remember fleas drown in any soapy water and the insecticides used in flea shampoos may not be safe for your cat. Additionally, the insecticide is immediately washed off and the now clean cat is re-infested with fleas from the environment.
  • DON’T – Treat your home with products that may not be safe for you or your pet. Flea “bombs” and most pest control companies are not recommended.
  • DON’T – Use over the counter deworming medication.In addition to potential safety risks, these products usually are not effective.
  • DON’T – Assume your cat does not have fleas because you can not see them. Many cats are excellent groomers and often ingest all of the evidence of flea infestation. Weight loss, hair loss,scratching, scabby patches of skin, soft stools, blood in the stool, black comma shaped debris on pet bedding that turns red when moistened are all other indicators of a potential flea problem.

Flabbergasting Flea Facts!

  • One female flea can produce 2,000 eggs in it’s lifetime – up to 50 per day!
  • Fleas can reproduce year round, especially in Southern climates.
  • The adults you see on your pet are only 5% of the problem; 95% of flea infestations are the tiny eggs, larvae and pupae!
  • Flea infestations can thrive in an area as small as the welcome mat outside your door!
  • Your pet does not have to go outside to acquire fleas; you can bring them in on your socks and shoes!
  • Remember flea control products do not create an invisible shield around your pet. Fleas must come into contact with skin or fur to be affected by topical flea treatments. So you may see an occasional flea from time to time.

Flea-sources

Revolution® (selamectin)

Revolution is the first-ever FDA-approved, topically applied medication for cats that kills adult fleas (Ctenocephalides felis) and prevents flea eggs from hatching, prevents heartworm disease caused by Dirofilaria immitis,treats and controls ear mites(Otodectes cynotis), treats and controls roundworms (Toxocara cati) and hookworms (Ancylostoma tubaeforme). Revolution enters the bloodstream through the skin. Concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissues prevent heartworm disease and prevent and treat roundworm and hookworm infections. Revolution selectively redistributes from the blood to the skin and other tissues, where it provides protection against fleas, flea eggs, and ear mites for one month. It is safe to use on cats that are at least 6 weeks old.

Frontline® (fipronil)

Frontline is another topically applied medication. One spot-on application kills fleas on cats for 4 weeks.After Frontline has been applied, it spreads to cover the entire body surface, and kills fleas by contact, which means they don't have to bite the animal to die. It is safe to use on cats that are over 8 weeks old.

Capstar® (nitenpyram)

Capstar is an oral insecticide. It is very fast acting - fleas start to die within 30 minutes of administration, and most are dead within 2-3 hours. Capstar is inexpensive,but unfortunately very short acting. After 24 hours, any fleas arriving on the animal may be unaffected. We use Capstar mainly as an adjunct to topical flea treatments. It is safe to use on cats that are both over 4 weeks old,and more than 2 pounds in weight.

Owner compliance is the best way to eradicate flea infestations. Be diligent with the treatment of all pets in the household, be fastidious about cleanliness and be persistent knowing that there is not a quick fix to a flea infestation.Prevention is the best medicine!

Help! My Cat Got Out!!

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  • If your cat is microchipped, report your pet as lost to the microchip company. Let your vet know as well. Make flyers and hang them everywhere! Post them at your local pet stores, grocery stores, shelters, animal control, your vet, surrounding area vets, neighborhood clubhouses, and anywhere else that would be helpful.
  • Don’t forget the “Good Samaritan” - the person that finds your cat in your neighborhood but drives many miles to their home or their vet to be examined. These people mean well, they are trying to help what they think is a homeless stray. Our point is that a lost cat can get far outside the neighborhood in no time so broaden your search!
  • Keep your cat’s scent out on your property. Place bedding on your porch or deck. Sprinkle the contents of your litter boxes around the perimeter of the yard. Since rain will wash the scent away, save some contents for future depositing. Cats have an amazing sense of smell so you don’t need a lot to be effective.
  • The humane Havahart trap (http://www.havahart.com) that you bait with food is excellent. The key is only putting food in the trap. If your lost cat can more easily get a meal from a plate on your deck, why would they venture into this weird device? Use extra stinky canned cat food or whatever your cat finds irresistible. Freshen it twice a day. If ants are a problem, place the food bowl inside a larger bowl with water in it creating a “moat” to drown the ants!
  • You may catch wildlife or other people’s cats in the process; know that they are more afraid of you than you are of them. Just open the trap and let them bolt away. They will not attack you, all they want to is to get away.
  • Always keep the trap hidden and sheltered. Cats are both predator and prey so they know better (particularly when they are scared) than to sit in the middle of the back yard!
    Place the trap alongside the house, under the deck, in the bushes, behind the shed. Try: placing a blanket or towel that smells like home over the top, putting cardboard scraps in the trap or on top (cats love cardboard!), baiting a trail of food to the trap.
  • If using a humane trap, it is imperative to check the trap frequently particularly when temperatures are extreme and keep the food or treats in the trap fresh. At minimum, all traps should be checked at least 3 times a day.
  • If your cat is not falling for the trap, put out more than one. They are available for purchase at most home improvement/hardware stores and many rescue groups rent or lend them out.
  • Go door to door and tell everyone that your cat is missing. Lost cats can easily get accidentally trapped in crawlspaces, sheds and garages especially during peak yard work time and the holidays when people are getting out or putting away decorations.
  • Call for them and shake their favorite treat bag! This is best to do at dawn and dusk since these are the times of day when cats are most active (because it is also when their prey is most active).
  • Check to see if there is a “Pet Detective” in your area! Locally, we have a retired police officer and his retired search and rescue dogs that will come search for your cat. Even if the worst is found, at least you have closure.
  • Walk the shelters and animal control facilities. As gut wrenching as this will be, many of these places miss that a cat just dropped off is a perfect match for the one in your flyer. Go to all surrounding area shelters and not just your local one.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline 

Finding a Home for a Stray Cat



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It’s a familiar dilemma for many cat-lovers: we want to rescue homeless and abandoned cats,but we can’t always keep them! Here are some tips to help you find a good home for a stray cat.

Please note: Paws Whiskers & Claws doesnot accept cats for adoption.

If you want a new home for your own pet...

The sad fact is that almost 80% of cats do not stay with their first owner beyond two years. Shelters usually have fewer strays than animals that have been turned-in by former owners. The reasons for giving up a pet vary, but often include allergies, moving,childbirth, and behavior problems. The good news is that you don’t have to give up the cat in order to address these (and other)issues! If your cat has a medical or behavioral problem, call us for behavioral advice or to set up an appointment.

If you or a family member has an allergy problem, consult a pet-friendly allergy specialist, who will work with you to manage the allergies and allow you to keep your cat.

Are you sure the stray is homeless?

Don’t assume that a wandering animal is homeless, or that she has an uncaring owner. Even careful and loving owners sometimes lose a pet. If the stray comes to you willingly and seems friendly, it may be someone’s missing pet. Most cats don’t stray far, so ask neighbors whether they recognize the cat. Call local shelters and ask whether they have reports of a missing pet. Check the Lost and Found ads. Have the stray checked for a microchip ID.

If the cat’s owner cannot be found, your next task is to find her a new home.

First things first

The first priority is to keep both the stray cat and your pets safe until you can find a new home for the stray. If you have other pets, keep the stray separate from them to avoid spreading disease or parasites. Maybe you can keep the stray in a small room or a bathroom. Donot allow your pets to share the stray’s dishes or litter box. If you cannot keep the cat for a few days, ask a friend to foster the cat for you, or board the cat at an appropriate facility. (Be sure to ask whether there’s a discount for rescued strays!)

Make the stray more adoptable

It will be easier to place the stray if you can have a vet examine and vaccinate her, and test for FIV and FeLV. If the cat hasn’t been spayed or neutered,consider having that done; there are low-cost spay/neuter programs that can help with the cost. Socialize the stray as much as possible; visit and play with her, and get her used to being petted and brushed.

Spread the word!

Print a flyer

Print a flyer with a picture of the cat and your contact information. Tell a little about the cat (she’s playful, she’s quiet,she likes children, she doesn’t like dogs,etc.) and provide any medical information you have (whether she’s been spayed,vaccinated, etc.), and why you need to place her. See the sample on page 4.

Advertise

Place an ad in local newspapers, including the small weekly news sheets; many offer free “found” ads. Post signs in your neighborhood. Put a notice in your neighborhood newsletter. Ask to place a flyer in veterinarians’ offices and pet supply stores. Post a notice on the bulletin board at your office, your gym, your church, and anywhere else you can think of. Use the Internet! You can place notices on community lists and chat rooms. Many people prefer to adopt cats from private homes rather than from shelters, but you need to reach them!

Word of mouth

Talk to friends, neighbors, family members, co-workers, the clerk at the grocery store, and so on. The more people you talk to, the better the chances that you’ll find someone who will provide a great home for the cat. Keep a couple of flyers with you at all times so you can give one to anybody who expresses interest.

Wanting the stray is not enough!

You may be tempted to give the stray to the first person who calls – but please don’t! Carefully screen the callers until you’re sure that you’ve found a good home. Remember that the cat’s life depends on your decision. It is better to mistakenly turn down a good home than to put the cat into a bad home. You need to make sure that the person is willing and able to take on the expense and responsibility of owning a cat.

Ask to see where the cat will be living. Check the condition of other animals in the home to verify that they are well cared-for. Ask what happened to the person’s previous pets. Does the potential adopter have a vet? Does the person understand the necessity of vaccines and annual exams? Will the cat be fed a high-quality diet? Will she be kept safely indoors? Does the prospective owner understand the dangers of declawing or the harmful results of not spaying and neutering?

Do not give the cat away for free. People who are willing to pay something for a pet are more likely to be serious about caring for it. Sad to say, there are also people out there who gather free animals for medical experiments, or worse.

No-kill shelters and rescue organizations

Contact the no-kill shelters and rescue organizations in your area and ask whether they can accept the stray. It is important to verify that it is a no-kill shelter, meaning that they will keep the stray until she is adopted. (Other shelters will often euthanize an animal within a few days.) No-kill shelters are usually full, and you may have to place your stray on a waiting list.

You can find the names and phone numbers of local shelters in the phone book,often under the name of the county where you live.

There’s lots of information on the Internet about shelters and rescue organizations. Also refer to the Resources section below. Remember that Website addresses may change, so try using a search engine to locate groups and shelters in your area.

Keep in mind that there are far too many homeless pets and too few people willing to help place them. If you don’t immediately get a return call from a rescue organization, try again. These hard-working animal-lovers are doing their best, but there are only so many hours in a day!

Weekend adoption events

Many organizations run weekend adoption events at stores such as Petsmart.There may be a waiting list to get your stray into one of these adoption events.Many of these organizations need volunteers; perhaps you can offer to help staff an adoption event in exchange for bringing your stray cat for adoption. These organizations may also have names of possible foster parents.

Don’t give up!

It often takes time to place a stray cat into a new home. There are just too many homeless animals and too few homes. Keep at it until your stray cat has a suitable forever-home.

And if you decide you can squeeze one more stray into your home and your heart, so much the better! That leaves a potential home for another stray kitty!Contact us for free advice on how to integrate the new cat into your household,or download information from our Web site.

Resources

Spay/neuter assistance

      • Spay Georgia (770-662-4479)
      • Friends of Animals (770-662-6033)

[Sample flyer]

Seeking a great home for a special cat!

This handsome five-year-old gray tabby was found wandering along a busy road. We would love to keep him, but our lease limits us to the two cats we already have, so we need to find him a new home quickly.

He has been examined by a vet, vaccinated, and tested for FIV and FeLV(both negative). Other than being a little thin, he’s in good health. He hasbeen neutered and treated for flea and heartworm prevention.

He is friendly and likes to play and cuddle. He seems a bit scared of children, so he’d probably be happier in a home with adults. He gets along with dogs and other cats, and enjoys watching our Video Catnip DVD!

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If you’re interested in adopting this kitty, please call 770-555-1234 or send an e-mail message to <myaddy@isp.com>. Adoption fee and interview required.

Indoor Cats Only

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Here at Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital we are advocates of cats being kept indoors. Indoor only cats live longer, healthier lives and have less risk of disease, injury or getting lost or stolen. Should you decide to give your cat supervised access to the outdoors, we recommend using a leash and harness or outdoor enclosure and making sure your cat has proper identification in the form of a microchip and a collar and tag. All cats, especially those with access to the outdoors should also be on heartworm and flea prevention. The following is a list of risks facing free roaming cats and the families that love them.

  • Free roaming cats are often targets of human cruelty. Cats may be shot, stabbed, set on fire or captured and used as bait to train fighting dogs.Some cats are stolen for research and sold to laboratories.
  • Free roaming cats may be prone to being “rescued” by a Good Samaritan who may take your cat in as one of their own or take your cat to a local shelter, veterinary hospital or animal control agency.
  • Cats get hit by cars, and that kills cats every day.
  • When people attempt to avoid hitting cats while driving they may be injured or killed. Your free roaming cat can cause a person to die.
  • Allowing your cat to roam freely decreases the human animal bond. Why is it acceptable to let your cat outside to wander the neighborhood when you would not let your dog out for 12 hours to roam unsupervised?
  • Free roaming cats are susceptible to fighting with other free roaming animals resulting intransmission of diseases, abscess wounds, scratched eyes or internal injuries causing increased cost of medical care. Diseases they may encounter include rabies, cytaux zoonosis, feline leukemia and FIV. No vaccine is 100% effective.
  • Free roaming cats are vulnerable to attacks from predators including coyotes, foxes, birds of prey and, unfortunately, free roaming dogs.
  • Free roaming cats may have medical emergencies that are not seen by their owners, such as seizures, strokes or worse. Sometimes the cats recover and return home, but the family never knows what happened. You cannot seek treatment for a medical issue of which you are not aware.
  • Free roaming cats may encounter many toxic dangers including antifreeze, pesticides,rodenticides, fertilizers, traps or toxic plants.
  • Free roaming cats are more likely to contract debilitating parasites such as worms, ticks, mites and fleas. Zoonotic diseases(transmissible from animals to humans) such as roundworms and rabies may be spread by outdoor cats.
  • Poop and pee are important to see! What is or is not in your cats litterbox are important indicators of the health of your cat. For example,too much or too little urine can be indicative of an important and possibly life threatening medical issue.
  • In cold climates, cats may crawl under car hoods to warm up. When the ignition turns, the cats are mangled. Additionally, they may seek refuge in crawl spaces, sheds and garages where they may be easily locked in, without food or water, for extended periods of time.
  • Free roaming cats may not find their way back home, especially senior cats.
  • Allowing your cat to roam freely is not good for the environment. They do in fact kill songbirds,small mammals and other wildlife.
  • Allowing your cats to be unsupervised outside may cause your neighbors to think of you as disrespectful. Free roaming cats cause behavior problems for neighbors' indoor only cats; roaming cats may eliminate on someone else's property, often in gardens. They may also relieve themselves on or scratch the hoods of cars.
  • Indoor only cats live an average of three times longer than outdoor cats.

What is the upside of being encouraged to roam the neighborhood? Life is more interesting outdoors. Far more dangerous too. Nothing listed above is opinion - it is all fact. We know these are real threats to cats allowed to wander outside. We just don't know exactly how often they occur. We know most of these things can't happen to indoor cats. Please reference our Environmental Enrichment handout for ideas on keeping your cat active, stimulated and happy within the safety of your home.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline