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Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital

Georgia's premier cat hospital - servicing Marietta, Roswell, Sandy Springs, Atlanta, Vinings, Cumming, Alpharetta, Morningside, Smyrna

(770) 579-6001

4719 Lower Roswell Road, Suite 220
Marietta, Georgia, 30068
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Adoption Considerations

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Thinking about adopting a cat? Ensure it’s a success with these tips!

In spite of their reputation for being solitary animals, cats are actually very social creatures who enjoy the company of other cats and sometimes even dogs. Many behavior problems exhibited in single-cat households can be resolved by bringing home a friend for the existing cat. When you feel it is time to add another cat to your household — or if a stray decides to adopt you — here are some tips to help you make the best decisions.

When introducing new cats to cats already living in your home, take appropriate pairings into account and consider the needs of both the new cat(s) and established cat(s). You’ll achieve the most success by providing a safe environment for the new cat to start in and using positive reinforcement techniques to introduce him or her to the new environment and other cats. (See the step-by-step guide to introducing cats here.)

Two unrelated adult cats living together after being slowly & positively introduced.
Two unrelated adult cats living together after being slowly & positively introduced.

Adopting in Pairs

Cats are a social species, but unlike humans, they do not rely on social contact for survival. They are solitary hunters but live in groups and are as social as is appropriate for them. For cats, being related is often more important than simply being familiar with another cat. We do cats a disservice by breaking up litters and families and should make a distinct effort to adopt sibling pairs, mothers with kittens, etc.

Cats — especially kittens — should be adopted in pairs. It is easier and less stressful for all involved. Changes of environment and the introduction of newcomers are the most stressful experiences cats can endure. When two cats are adopted together, they can help each other cope with the changes. Adopting more than one cat also means that the humans do not have to provide all entertainment because the cats will have each other.

Willow and Soren as kittens

These kittens have each other to help them cope with the stress of a new home, the loss of their mother & litter mates and a buddy to help them adjust to a scary human world.

Wrestle companions & socialized to their own species.
Wrestle companions & socialized to their own species.
IMG_1755

Cats raised in pairs are more socially normal, more easily introduced to other cats and generally less aggressive towards humans (do not attack hands etc, unless taught to do so).

Often, having more than one cat also results in a reduction in destructive behavior. The cats can play rough and tumble with each other, so they spend less time getting into kitchen cabinets or destroying toilet paper. Not to say those things won’t happen — especially with kittens — but they will happen less often than they would with a single kitten who is bored. Kittens adopted together also have an appropriate playmate to teach them the ropes, so they are less likely to exhibit aggressive behaviors such as biting human hands and feet (unless this is encouraged and taught).

Human hands should be reserved for affection. Hunting blows can be practiced on each other or on appropriate toys. No human or dog can teach a cat, “Hey, you just bit too hard. The game is over now.” That is called “bite inhibition,” and only cats can teach other cats this lesson.

Cats learn the majority of their social skills by the time they are nine to 12 weeks of age. During those early weeks, they learn fear, aggression, and basically how to speak cat. If they miss this key window of time with other cats — say, in the case of a bottle-raised kitten or the impulse adoption of a single kitten taken from its littermates at four weeks old — they may not know what to do with their own species as adults.

Poorly socialized cats have “Tarzan Syndrome.” For comparison, imagine raising a child alone in a room, interacting only by passing a food tray under the door, and then sending that kid to college at age 18. Problems would result.) Most cats with Tarzan Syndrome are aggressive toward other cats. They will defend themselves from the cat you are trying to introduce because they never learned to interact with their own species. They instinctively tell the new cat to back off or else! 

“But I really only want one…”

If you insist on adopting only one cat, we strongly encourage you to adopt an adult cat who was raised as an only cat and has no interest in living with other cats. These cats can be extremely difficult to adopt out because so many families have multi-cat households.

It is also common for a person to think they want just one cat then realize how amazing cats are and decide to adopt another after a few years. This rarely goes well. In this scenario, it is often best to adopt a pair of kittens. The existing cat may find them less threatening, and if the kittens do end up being rejected, they will still grow up with each other so that they can learn proper social skills, how to play and spar with other cats, etc. This also ensures that the person does not raise yet another poorly socialized only-child cat. We need to break this cycle!

Compatibility Factors

When adding a new cat to a home with existing adult cats, there are several factors to consider. We humans tend to make selfish decisions without thinking of the repercussions, and adopting pets is no exception. It is important to try to maximize compatibility.

If, for example, you have a 15-year-old cat, you should not adopt a single 6-week-old kitten. Nothing could be worse! That kitten will get bigger and want to play and roughhouse. An arthritic, geriatric cat is not an evenly matched playmate. Over time, the kitten will get more and more frustrated and before you know it, there will be a full-on aggression problem. The older cat will run away, which simply evokes the kitten’s prey drive, making it seem like a game. After all, when caught, the senior kitty probably struggles and screams just like real prey.

Many people have seen a puppy perk up a senior dog and give them new life, but cats are not dogs and this is not the case with this species. In fact, it’s just the opposite; the stress of a new kitten can affect a senior’s quality of life to the extent that we can lose them prematurely to medical problems and disease.

If you have a household of healthy adult cats, the world is your oyster — within the realm of compatibility, of course. The key is to adopt cats of similar activity levels and then to introduce them slowly and positively.

A few additional facts to keep in mind: Many male cats like to engage in adolescent play behaviors well into their teens. Females, on the other hand, become much less interested in physical play once they reach social maturity at about two years of age. They still hunt and engage with toys (solo object play) but are not as interested in wrestling, though there are exceptions. Cats’ social structure is largely matriarchal, meaning that a female often rules the roost. If you end up with a house full of females, you may have a lot of vying for top-cat position. If you have a cat with a very assertive personality, it may be best to introduce an easy-going, well-socialized male who gets along with everyone.

A Lifetime Commitment

Just remember: Adoption is a lifetime commitment and cats can live well into their late teens and even into their twenties. Be committed to making it work and seek advice from your veterinarian and/or local behaviorist if you experience challenges integrating a newcomer.

Choosing to spend time together. Besties!
Choosing to spend time together. Besties!
Adult cats introduced & living happily together.
Adult cats introduced & living happily together.
Raspy and Tucker, our clinic cats.
Raspy and Tucker, our clinic cats.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior Tagged With: adopt in pairs, adopting kittens, adopting more than one cat, don't shop adopt

How to Introduce a Cat to a Dog

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With a patient and careful introduction, your pets will enjoy a positive and long-lasting relationship.

Can cats and dogs really get along? Of course they can! They can even be best friends! The first step is having a well-trained dog. Well-trained dogs are happier dogs who better understand their place in the home, and this gives you some control when it comes to introducing a new family member — a new cat, dog, or even a baby or roommate.

When introducing a cat and a dog, the steps described in the “How to Introduce Cats to Each Other” and “How to Introduce a Cat to a New Environment” handouts should still be followed. Take it slow, end on a positive note, and use high-value rewards when they are in the presence of one another.

If the cat is the newcomer, they will need to start in a safe room. Find something that motivates the cat as a reward so that you can begin positive reinforcement exercises on either side of a visual barrier such as a baby gate, screen door, French doors, etc.

Best friends!
Best friends!

If the dog is the new family member, he or she should be contained for house-breaking and training purposes. They may have the kitchen and their crate in the beginning, but they should not be allowed to barge in and take over the house, making the cat feel like a prisoner in their once safe home. We only recommend confining the cat to their favorite, safest room of the house if they are incredibly shy and intimidated, and it is in their best interest to have their world made smaller. Otherwise, the cat should have free run and the dog must be contained.

Your cat may feel too intimidated to get to their food bowls, water, and especially litter box. Do not move their litter box! Instead, add resources in places where your cat feels safe. Abrupt change is stressful to cats, and a new dog is stressful enough. Give them more choices and options, not fewer.

Here are a few key tips:

  • Do not allow your dog to chase, bark at, or pursue your cats in any way. Cats who run get chased because running evokes the prey drive in dogs. This can be a deadly scenario. Dogs pick up their prey and shake it. And while the owners may notice no evidence but saliva on the cat, the cat may be suffering serious internal organ damage that can be fatal. Cuddling and grooming is fine, but dogs and cats should not be allowed to wrestle or rough-house together.
  • Create vertical space so that your cats can get up and away from the dogs. This is key for the cat’s sanity and sense of security, as well as for their safety should an unsupervised chase ever ensue. Cats take great comfort in being up high. Make sure the dog respects the cat condo; paws off for dogs! This is usually only an issue with toy and agile breeds.
  • Create feeding stations up high so that the dogs do not scarf down all of the cats’ food. Remember that cats are the most three-dimensionally oriented species we share our homes with, so there are no hard, fast rules about the food dish being on the floor. Bathroom vanities, armoires, and cat condos are all great locations for cat food.
  • Always offer a separate water dish for cats. They may drink from the dog bowl too, but cats are very finicky about the taste of their water, and dog slobber could taint it enough to prevent them from drinking.
  • Put a baby gate up to keep the dog out of the litter box. Lift the gate a few inches so that cats can go under or over it. If you have a very small dog, you may have to get more creative, but know that hooded litter boxes are not the solution. Elimination is a vulnerable time for a cat, and hooded boxes can make them feel threatened because they cannot see the dog approaching. Most dogs can also fit their head inside the opening; imagine how scary that would be if you were a cat using the box!
  • Training your dog to understand the “leave it” and “drop it” commands will allow cats to have toys, food puzzles, and free access to the litter box. Many homes with dogs are void of cat toys because the dog eats or destroys all of the cats’ things. This is extremely unfair. Do not allow this to happen to your once happy cat.
  • Monitor your cat when your dog is eating. Cats should NOT eat dog food. It is not balanced or made for them and can cause urinary problems.
  • Contact between a dog and a cat should always be initiated by the cat. Even if the cat gives the dog a warning swat with a paw, the dog should not retaliate. The goal is not for the dog to be injured, but for them to realize that the cat comes equipped with sharp pointy things that should be avoided!

It cannot be stressed enough that supervision is imperative when introducing dogs and cats. Do not leave the dog and cat alone unsupervised until you are 100% sure the dog will not attack the cat under any circumstances. Since this is a very high expectation, and there are many cases of dogs attacking and killing the family cat after years of living together, you are wiser to keep them separated or keep the dog crated while you are not home.

Dominance training, shock collars, pinch collars etc. are outdated methods that are not nearly as effective as positive techniques. Animals learn best using positive reinforcement. Reward behaviors you like, ignore behaviors you don’t. This works best for all species (humans too)! Please contact your veterinarian to get a recommendation for a positive reinforcement dog trainer in your area.

Congratulations on your new addition! With the techniques described here, you can successfully introduce cats to dogs. With time and patience in the beginning, your household will have long-term harmony, and your pets will have a positive and long-lasting relationship.

 

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior Tagged With: cats and dogs, introducing cats to dogs

How to Introduce a Cat to a New Environment

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Helping a new cat get comfortable in your home involves much more than opening the carrier door.

Regardless of whether there are existing pets in the household, you should not give a new cat(s) the run of the house when you bring them home. Instead, create a safe room where they will remain until they tell us that they are ready to start exploring their new home and potentially meeting the existing cats.

Welcome home!

Their safe room should be a cozy area; cats feel comfort in small, confined spaces. Cats are both predator and prey, so when presenting them with a new environment, it is best to start small and allow them to acclimate slowly. This keeps them from feeling threatened and is especially important if the cat is shy or under-socialized. Hiding places should be available, and the cat should be allowed to come out at his or her own pace. Avoid using rooms where the cats can get under large pieces of furniture, such as beds, where you cannot access them, pet them, play with them, or offer treats and encouragement. This is especially important if the cat is timid.

Safe room set up example, adult cat in small bathroom.
Safe room set up example, adult cat in small bathroom.
Safe room set up example for two kittens also in a small bathroom.
Safe room set up example for two kittens also in a small bathroom.

Set them up in a room where you will be comfortable having resources (food, water, litter) long-term, potentially forever. Cats are creatures of habit and do not welcome abrupt change. Moving everything out of their safe room to suddenly convert it back into a guest room can be very stressful and result in unwanted behaviors such as eliminating where their litter box used to be or forgoing eating.

Make sure that all of the cat’s needs are met in the safe space. Set them up for success! Include at least one scratching post. This is your chance to start them off right, so if you adopted kittens, don’t offer puny kitten products! Give them the real thing that they would use as an adult cat.

If space allows, offer more than one litter box. Cats prefer to urinate in one area and defecate in another. Be sure to offer food, water, solo toys (so they can play when they feel safe and comfortable) and cozy, fuzzy beds. If they will be introduced to other cats, offer easily exchangeable bedding. We will use that later in the process (see our “How to Introduce Cats to Each Other” handout for more information).

This safe room provides several advantages. It’s a place where your new cat can get used to you and other members of the household without feeling overwhelmed by the entire home. If there are other pets in the household, make sure they are not in the room to further intimidate your new cat while they’re exploring this strange new place. Also, as you begin to let the new cat out of the room and into the rest of the house, ensure they can return to their familiar safe place if they start feeling insecure or out of their comfort zone.

No puny scratching posts for kittens! Give them the real thing to start them off right!
No puny scratching posts for kittens! Give them the real thing to start them off right!

Safety Tips

Make sure the room, as well as the rest of the house, is “cat-proof.” Even if you already have cats who don’t chew on things like electrical cords, your new cat may find them fascinating and can get seriously injured or worse while playing. Also check for strings, ribbons, and small objects that can be swallowed, possibly leading to emergency surgery or even a fatality. Be sure that holes in walls, A/C vents, and ducts are all secured. You will be surprised what a scared cat can fit into!

Be sure your new cat is microchipped and start acclimating them to wearing a collar. You never know if you will have an emergency like a break-in or house fire. Be prepared! The best form of ID, should your new cat escape from the home, is a safe cat break-away collar with a microchip as a back-up if the collar comes off. 

Acclimating to the Safe Room

When you bring your new cat home, immediately put them in the safe room with the door closed. Open the carrier and let them come out on their own. If there are other animals in the house, it is imperative that you do not set the cat carrier down and allow the existing animals to approach. This is threatening and frightening to the cat trapped in the carrier!

Initially, they may be shy or frightened and may find a place where they can gather themselves and feel safe before checking things out. Cats feel safe either under things (beds, couches) or up high (cat condos, dressers, cabinets). Eventually, they will begin exploring their new digs, often at night when it is dark. Offer nightlights in the safe room. A cat’s vision is at its best in low, dim light.

Over the next few days, make sure the cat is eating well and using the litter box. Any kind of change can be stressful to a cat, and moving to a new home is one of the most stressful events your cat will encounter. Because of this, it is not uncommon for cats to break with a cold or other illness after moving to a new home. Call your veterinarian immediately if you notice signs of illness.

Once the new cat is eating, drinking, and eliminating normally, it is time to start the introduction process to the rest of the home and/or to the other pets. You will know they are ready when they are eager to see you when you enter the room and curious about what is on the other side of the door. If they are still frozen with fear and hiding, it is not time to move forward to give them even more space. They will only feel more overwhelmed.

You will have the rest of your lives together. DO NOT rush or force things, as humans tend to do. Even when we think we are taking things slow, it is never slow enough for a cat!

 

Exploring the House

You may simply open the door so that your new cat can exit the room and retreat back to the safe room if needed. DO NOT force them to exit their safe room. Some cats will be perfectly content in this new room for weeks. Others will be eager to explore. Always go at your cat’s pace.

Place resources throughout the home, so as your new cat peruses the place, they learn where other sources of food, water, litter, and scratching posts are located. Use food, treats, and interactive lure toys to make the exploration a positive and fun experience!

Allow them to cruise around the home for 15 to 30 minutes, but confine them again at their next mealtime or before they get overwhelmed. You want to ensure that each exploration session ends on a positive note, not something scary that causes them to bolt around the house! It is also great to lure them back into their safe room using an interactive toy. This way, they actually go back in of their own free will and you have not “locked them up.”

Gradually increase the amount of time they are allowed outside of their safe room, eventually only putting them back in when you cannot supervise (in bed, at work). Depending on the individual cat or kitten’s needs, most will be able to enjoy the run of the house within a few weeks.

For more timid individuals, you may start by placing a baby gate across the doorway threshold before opening the door all the way. They may feel more inclined to approach the threshold with this “visual barrier” in place. You can then feed them their meals at this visual barrier, eventually removing it and feeding them in the open doorway threshold. You can utilize food or play to encourage them to take a few steps out of the room. Play increases confidence and decreases stress. Use this tool to your advantage. They may only come two feet out of the room before retreating back, but that is okay! Use play to lure them out of the room AND back in to increase their confidence to cross the threshold.

By taking things slowly and using the techniques described here, your new cat will grow to feel comfortable and confident in their new home.

 

The other cats are confined so there are no threats during exploration.
The other cats are confined so there are no threats during exploration.
Seniors often do not require double stacking.
Seniors often do not require double stacking.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

More Information

If you will be introducing your cat to other cats, please see our “How to Introduce Cats to Each Other” handout. If you will be introducing your cat to a dog, please see our “Introducing a Dog and a Cat” handout.

Filed Under: Behavior Tagged With: Introducing cats, Introducing cats to a new home

How to Introduce Cats to Each Other

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Taking your time with a slow, positive introduction process leads to long-term harmony

The key to introducing cats to each other is to TAKE IT SLOWLY. Take little steps and evaluate how your cats react. There is no magic formula that will tell you when a cat is ready to be fully integrated into the household; you must be able to observe them and judge their progress on an individual basis. Some say their cats got along beautifully from day one (not that they should have even met that quickly), and others say it took six months or more before they finally lived peacefully under the same roof.

Cats can coexist together most of the time, even if they’re not the best of friends, as long as they are introduced slowly and positively and there are enough resources throughout the home. They should never be forced to share coveted basic needs such as food, water, litter, and perches.

During the introductory stage, you will probably notice that the original cats in your household are very curious about the other cat behind the door. (See “How to Introduce Cats to a New Environment” handout for details on how to set up your new cat’s safe room.) They will probably start sniffing under the door and maybe even hissing. Don’t be alarmed; it’s normal for cats to hiss at something new or something they don’t understand. Hissing is a distance-increasing behavior. Simply put, it’s a warning saying, “Please back off, and do not come any closer.”

We want to make sure the new cat and the old cat associate good things with that door and what’s on the other side of it. The following is a step-by-step guide on how to do that.

Two cats touching noses for the first time, a very high form of affection in cat speak!
Two cats touching noses for the first time, a very high form of affection in cat speak!

What Not to Do

Before we discuss how to properly introduce cats, we should touch on some techniques that are quite inappropriate but, sadly, often recommended:

  • Do not place the new cat(s) in a carrier and set them on the living room floor where the existing cats can circle (and hiss at) them. This is incredibly stressful and makes the new cats feel like prey. This commonly recommended technique often results in an incredibly negative first encounter.
  • Do not physically restrain the cats with your hands, a harness, leashes, etc. in an effort to force interactions. That is a great way to increase the cats’ stress levels and get yourself injured.
  • Do not place one cat face-to-face with another cat.
  • Do not just open the carrier and let them go.

These techniques are recipes for disaster!

DO NOT put the carrier down and allow your cats to circle the new cats like prey.
DO NOT put the carrier down and allow your cats to circle the new cats like prey.
DO NOT restrain cats with your hands and force them together!
DO NOT restrain cats with your hands and force them together!

One Sense at a Time

Once the new cat(s) are eating, drinking, and eliminating normally, it is time to start the actual introduction process. It is best to introduce cats to each other one sense at a time.

Since cats are solitary predators and solitary eaters using their main meals as a means of introducing can be very stressful and could potentially result in associating anxiety and perceived competition in regard to the newcomer. For this reason, try interactive lure toys, brushing, or petting instead. Olfactory enrichment such as catnip, silvervine, valerian, and dried Tartarian honeysuckle can also be used. Use whatever each individual finds motivating. Using treats as rewards is perfectly fine, just avoid feeding their main meals together or having all food resources be near the new cat’s safe room. This is also a good time to mention that the cats do not need to be engaged in the same activity. One cat could be playing while the other cat is doing clicker training tricks or being brushed.

Toys, a special treat, & a food puzzle on both sides of a solid door (& cute footsie).
Toys, a special treat, & a food puzzle on both sides of a solid door (& cute footsie).

Cats who live together in a group form a colony odor or group scent. When bringing a new cat home, one of the biggest insults to existing cats is that the new cat smells funny, so we want to first facilitate scent exchange.

Some great ways to do scent exchanges are to flip-flop the bedding provided for each cat, swap their toys, and switch out their scratching posts every few days so they can cross scent mark each other’s posts without meeting. Wiping both parties down with a washcloth, old sock, or glove reserved for this purpose is also an excellent idea. If introducing one cat to multiple cats, work with individual scents to start, once that is going well, we can start to work with combination scent. Color code the items so you know which to use on whom. What we do not want to do is molest the cats with another cat’s scent! Simply rub the jowls, face, and head of one cat with the cloth and then lay it in the other cat’s space. This allows them to explore the other cat’s scent, hiss at it, rub on it, whatever they choose to do, but we should not rub that cloth all over the other cat’s body. Given the sensitivity of a cat’s sense of smell, this can be extremely insulting. Combination scent cloths should be rubbed on objects the cats regularly rub up against such as walls, chair legs, even the human’s legs. Once all cats are accepting these new smells and actively rubbing against the cloth or object it is time to move on to site swapping.

Some commercially available products have been created to help ease tension among cats. Lavender, honeysuckle, and valerian root extract are all scents that have been found to have a calming effect on cats. Essential oils can be toxic to cats if ingested, so offer them in a way that allows for the inhalant calming effects but does not allow them to lick or eat the product.

Feliway is another popular commercial feline product. It works by utilizing pheromones and is available in two formulas. The original Feliway formula mimics the feline facial pheromone, making cats feel as if they have already marked a certain surface as their own using the scent glands in their jowls. The new Feliway Multi formula uses the pheromone found in the mammary glands of nursing moms, which reassures kittens and helps them form a bond with their mother. The goal of this product is to strengthen the relationship or build a bond with cats in the home and make them recognize each other as a more cohesive group. Feliway is often used as a “quick fix,” but just like medications, it is not a stand-alone cure. You will get the best results when Feliway is used in conjunction with a behavior modification plan.

Visual Barrier

The next step in introducing a new cat is to create a visual barrier. Double-stacked baby gates are probably the most common item used for this purpose, but you can also use a screen door, French doors, or closet shelving that has been zip-tied together — get creative! Be sure that you have eliminated the cats’ perception that they can scale the gates by thumbtacking a pillowcase, sheet, towel, or similar obstruction to the doorframe. If they successfully get over the gate even once, it will be more and more difficult to deter them. It could result in a cat fight and many steps in the wrong direction.

Double stacked baby gates, fabric secured to block perception that it can be scaled.
Double stacked baby gates, fabric secured to block perception that it can be scaled.
Close up of pinning the fabric into door frame with the gates.
Close up of pinning the fabric into door frame with the gates.

Once you’ve set up a visual barrier, repeat everything you did with the solid door, parallel play sessions at a distance, brushing, scent enrichment and treats. It is recommended to continue combination scent deposit throughout this process and on either side of the baby gates or doorways to achieve the greatest chance at scent recognition. This can be another use for Feliway, spray it on either side of the door frames and visual barrier.

During this phase, you may want to allow the cats to explore each other’s spaces. Put the existing cat(s) in a room they already enjoy, like the master bedroom. Allow the new cat to explore the home and get his or her bearings — while able to retreat to their safe room if they get spooked or overwhelmed. They can discover where food, water, and litter are located without the threat of bumping into one of the other cats. This exercise can build confidence. Each case is unique though. After successfully doing this a few times, you can allow the existing cat(s) into the new cat’s safe room to explore while the new cat has run of the house. This gives everyone a chance to hiss and spit and get their frustrations out without taking them out on each other.

Cats being introduced with the safety of a baby gate.
Cats being introduced with the safety of a baby gate.
Footsies, the gate ensures it doesn't get out of hand.
Footsies, the gate ensures it doesn't get out of hand.
Introduction in a cage at a clinic using baby gates.
Introduction in a cage at a clinic using baby gates.
Play, food, brushing etc. can be a positive tool.
Play, food, brushing etc. can be a positive tool.
Seniors often do not require double stacking.
Seniors often do not require double stacking.

Taking a Step Back

Sometimes moving to a fully exposed visual barrier is simply too much for the cats, and we have to go even slower. This is especially true when re-introducing cats that have experienced redirected aggression. To do so, put up your visual barrier, but affix a piece of cardboard or poster board to the baby gate using twist ties. Cover gate to the bottom so they can only see about an inch of the other room (basically, all they can see is each other’s paws). This is more fool proof than a towel or sheet as persistent cats can slip behind the towel.

Additionally, target training, sometimes called mat training, can be a very helpful tool. Teaching the cats to target a mat and even do a few tricks on the mat can keep the cats engaged and focused on you, the human, and not so hyper focused or stressed by the other cat, new or existing. Then we use the mats as a tool to bring them within closer proximity to each other all while taking comfort in a learned activity that increases their confidence and keeps them focused.

Once mat trained this sets us up to play the “look” game. This game starts with the cats at the greatest distance you can, given your space. This could be 10 feet on either side of the visual barrier if your home allows for such distance. Gradually — every two or three sessions — bring the mats closer (about six inches to a foot at a time). As that goes smoothly, gradually increase visual sight by lifting the cardboard covering another inch. Continue this way as long as both parties are comfortable and staying focused on the game/reward. If they start to hiss, spit, or lunge at the visual barrier, move back to where you were previously successful for a few sessions. Do NOT move closer together or increase visual access if they are exhibiting these negative behaviors.

Similarly, if there comes a point when the more timid cat will not come any closer, try elevating him or her! Encourage the fearful cat to get up on a chair, footstool, or small cat condo. The height will make them feel more secure and in control. The mat training will help them know where you want them to go. Clicker training offers a language with which you and your cat can more effectively communicate.

Between sessions, DO NOT leave up the visual barriers and leave the cats unattended. This could result in terrible fights through the visual barrier and undo all of your progress. Close the door to the safe room between each session. Try to always end on a positive note.

Elevate timid cats to increase their confidence.
Elevate timid cats to increase their confidence.
An example of a mat/target trained cat focusing on the trainer.
An example of a mat/target trained cat focusing on the trainer.

If you need some delicious training treat ideas here are some food rewards you can try:

  • Single-ingredient plain meat baby food
  • Hill’s Rx a/d, Royal Canin’s Rx recovery food CN
  • Churu’s
  • Freeze dried meats
  • Low-sodium chicken broth, tuna water, or oyster juice
  • Deli meats, roasted chicken, or dinner meat leftovers – NO ONIONS!
  • Various cat treats or even a different dry food as a treat
  • Varied and delicious suggestions recommended in the “Food Rewards Suitable for Training and Medicating” handout

The more you ask the more you pay so save high value food rewards for bigger asks!

Pattern games, as created by Leslie McDevitt, can provide similar focus as the mat training and the “look” game. What is a pattern game? Pattern games are a simple set of exercises that provide a predictable and secure structure for animals to help them normalize changes in their environment (potential "triggers" for reactive cats). Patterns are safe, predictable, repetitive, voluntary and normalizing! Once the pattern has been taught it would be utilized to keep the more aroused or unpredictable cat focused and under threshold so the other cat could build trust and not see them as a threat. 

Two target trained cats gradually getting closer over time.
Two target trained cats gradually getting closer over time.

At the end of training sessions give an “all done” cue so your cats know they are done training. If simply using positive reinforcement and not the training techniques still keep the sessions short and positive. Close the door when you are done. These short, positive sessions should only take between two and five minutes in most cases. You want to leave them longing for the next time they see each other, because when they do, something good, fun, or delicious occurs. You are paying your cats to like each other!

The next step is to eliminate the barriers. Remember to not force anything. Work with the cats at a distance and slowly bring them closer together over time. This step could be really uneventful at first, which is exactly what we want. Allow the cats to approach one another at their own pace and continue using all of the tools that have worked so far: toys, treats, training and pattern games. Keep the sessions short and end positively. Gradually increase the amount of time they spend together, but keep them separated when you cannot supervise.

Overcoming Issues

What do you do if the fur flies despite all of this effort? Have lure toys readily available for positive distraction so that you can easily diffuse the situation. Be equipped with treats to shift their focus if need be. It’s helpful to have a large piece of cardboard on hand so you can quickly block them from seeing each other should their interactions become negative. Use this if they get into a spitting match, start to posture like they are going to charge each other (turning their bodies sideways to appear larger), etc. Remember, it is best to positively diffuse a squabble. Do not yell at or scold the cats; they are acting normally for them!

It is always best to interrupt the behavior and redirect onto an appropriate target. Interrupters should create a “yuck” response. If you make a loud sound, and they run and hide under the bed for three hours, you have instilled far too much fear. If, on the other hand, they think of the interrupter as a game, it is obviously not effective. You have to find just the thing that will make them stop in their tracks, think for a second about what they are doing, and then shift their focus onto an appropriate activity (usually an interactive toy). Some examples of good interrupters are clapping hands, whistling, a noisy plastic bag, or a shake can (you can put pennies in an empty soda can, or add nuts or bells to make it extra noisy). Note: Spray bottles are for plants and teach cats nothing. Their use is not recommended. Once you have successfully interrupted the squabble and shifted focus onto something appropriate, lure the new cat back to the safe room and end the session.

The feline ThunderShirt can also be used as an introduction tool. It can be especially helpful if you have a cat who is acting too aggressively or lunging at other cats. Once they become accustomed to the ThunderShirt, cats can freely move about while wearing it, but it does appear to inhibit their urge to lunge, jump, and even run. The concept of the shirt is similar to swaddling an infant — creating comfort and a calming effect by tightly wrapping them. The ThunderShirt can serve two purposes: (1) having a calming and humbling effect on the aggressor while inhibiting some of their aggressive displays and (2) building confidence in the opposing party by allowing the two cats to spend time together without the threat of attack.

Sometimes we may also need the assistance of psychopharmaceuticals, but we like to exhaust nutraceuticals first. Composure treats, made by Vetri-science, contain the active ingredient L-theanine, the same ingredient that causes green tea to have a calming effect on humans. Anxitane, made by Virbac Animal Health, contains the same ingredients in tablet form. Finally, there is Zylkene, made by Vetoquinol, a hydrolyzed milk protein derivative known for its calming effects. Be sure to consult a veterinarian about utilizing these and other medications.

Reminders for Multi-Cat Households

When you adopt a new furry friend, a cat is not all that you will be adding to the household. You’ll need more litter boxes too. The rule of thumb is one box location per cat plus an additional box (ask us for our “Litter Box Fact Sheet” for more tips). You will also need more feeding stations, water bowls, scratching posts, beds, and cat condos. Even in a small apartment, you can make enough room for your cats by creating more vertical space.

With the techniques described here, you can successfully introduce new cats to existing ones. The moral is that we humans are far too anxious to “just see how they do,” but taking a little more time in the very beginning will help us achieve much more harmony in the long term.

If you do it right you will have friends for life.
If you do it right you will have friends for life.
Thundershirt being used to humble the aggressive cat.
Thundershirt being used to humble the aggressive cat.
It's nice to have a buddy by your side as you ponder life.
It's nice to have a buddy by your side as you ponder life.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior Tagged With: Bring a new cat home, Introducing cats, Introducing cats to each other, Introducing cats to other cats

Using Food Puzzles with Your Cat

Ingrid is excited to share that she co-authored a paper for the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery on helping clients use food puzzles with their cats! The final version is available at the publisher's website. As a supplement to the article this handout was created and you can download and share with others!

FP handout with attribution

This handout provided by permission of the authors and with permission to share from the JFMS.

Filed Under: Behavior

Litterbox Facts

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The saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" definitely applies to litter boxes! Follow these simple rules to avoid many of the most common reasons for inappropriate elimination.

Litter Box Basics

You need to consider the number, size, and type of boxes.

How many?

The basic rule is a minimum of one litter box per cat, plus one. That means if you have two cats, you should have at least three litter boxes. Many cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In a multi-level home, you should have at least one litter box on every floor.

What size?

 

img-6When it comes to litter boxes, larger is better. Even the so-called large litter boxes sold in pet supply stores are too small for most cats. The litter box should be 1-1/2 times the length of your cat's body so that your cat has room to move around in the box and not have to step in soiled areas.

We recommend using large plastic storage bins instead of commercial litter boxes. You can cut an entrance on one side to provide easier access. The high sides of these bins help contain litter when the cat digs and covers. Some cats, especially older and arthritic cats, can't or don't squat to urinate, and may accidentally urinate or defecate over the side of a smaller box; these bins eliminate that problem.

Purchase clear or transparent bins, especially for multi-cat households. Cats are vulnerable when they are in the litter box, and it's important that they can see what's around them. You can bring us your own bin and we'll cut and sand the entrance for you for a minimal charge. If you decide to try cutting an opening on your own, you must use a Dermal Tool with a heavy duty reinforced cutting disk.

Litter box types

  • Do not use hooded litter boxes exclusively! The hood traps odors inside and, even if scooped every day, it will quickly become offensive to your cat. The hood also makes it easier for a cat to be ambushed if there is any aggression between cats.
  • Note: A hooded litter box may be helpful if you have a cat that is shy About her toilet habits, but offer uncovered boxes as well.
  • Even though we recommend large storage bins as litter boxes, consider providing a large shallow container as an alternative. For example, you can get an inexpensive 30"x30"x2" plastic drip pan (intended for washing machines) at Home Depot. These are ideal for arthritic cats.
  • Electronic self-cleaning litter boxes may work for some cats, but we do not recommend them for a number of reasons.
  • Do not use litter box liners? Cats generally don't like the feel or the noise of these bags, and they actually create more mess than not using them because cats’ nails snag and tear the liners. Scented litter deodorants may irritate your cat's paws and the scent is offensive to delicate feline noses.

Litter Box Location

Placement of the litter boxes is extremely important. The litter box areas must be comfortable, convenient and safe.

    • Provide litter boxes on every floor of a multi-level home.
    • Do NOT place litter boxes in the same area as your cat's food and water. You wouldn't want to eat where you eliminate and neither does your cat!
    • In multi-cat households, do not place the boxes in "dead end" locations (such as closets) that offer only one way out. If a cat feels threatened by another cat, the dead-end location may create an opportunity for her to be ambushed, and she'll avoid using the box. Place the litter boxes in open areas or next to a cat condo so your cat has the option to flee "up". Avoid forcing the cat to use stairs or a cat door to reach the litter box because that can also lead to an ambush.
    • Do not place litter boxes in dark, loud, or odorous places, such as the Laundry room or near the furnace!
    • Cats cannot see in the dark; there must be a light source nearby so that The cat can use the litter box at night. Nightlights work well.
    • To keep other pets or small children away from the litter box, you can place a baby gate across the room entrance. You can raise the bottom of the gate a few inches off the floor to allow the cat to crawl under.

If you have further questions or would like an evaluation of your litter box placement, please contact us.

Choosing the Litter Box Filler

Remember to offer unscented litter. Your cat's nose is quite literally at least 14 times more sensitive than yours. What smells "fresh" to you can be overwhelmingly strong to your cat, and may lead to litter box avoidance!

Scoopable litter

Most cats prefer clumping scoopable litter over clay litter. Brands of scoopable litter differ in texture; you can experiment a bit to find the texture or brand that you and your cat like. (However, once you find a litter your cats like, avoid changing brands because sudden change can be disruptive to your cats.) You must scoop out clumped waste daily.

We recommend Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract litter. It is a clumping, scoopable litter that tracks less that other clumping litters. Cats prefer the size and texture, as well as the natural herbal blend (the scent mimics the aroma of soil and plant materials). You can use Cat Attract Litter Additive to any brand of unscented litter. We also recommend Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Classic Unscented or Ultra Unscented litter.

A good alternative for geriatric or declawed cats is Exquisicat Advanced Scoop, which is a clumping paper litter with a soft airy texture.

If you notice that your cat doesn't bother to cover the urine or feces in the box, chances are she doesn't like the type of litter you are offering.

Clay litter

Clay litter box filler is recommended for kittens that might accidentally ingest the finer scoopable litter. You must empty, clean, and refill the box daily. We recommend the Publix brand clay litter.

Alternate litter box fillers

Cats in the wild can chose from a wide variety of surfaces such as grass, pine straw, dirt, gravel, etc. You can provide options for your indoor cats too. While scoopable litter should be the filler in most boxes, you can offer alternate litter box filler in one or two boxes.

Some cats prefer using a puppy-training pad inside a regular litter box. The pads are available in any pet supply store. Cats may use them for urinating as well as defecating. Remove the soiled pad, wipe the box clean, and replace the pad whenever it is soiled. Puppy-training pads are a great option for cats that urinate excessively. Pads may also be preferred by declawed and arthritic cats.

Strange as it may seem, some cats prefer an empty litter box. They may not like the feel of anything under their feet except the smooth plastic box.

Avoid alternate litter box fillers that have a strong odor, such as cedar or citrus- scented litter or recycled newspaper pellets.

Litter Box Cleanliness

If you're using clay litter, you must empty, clean, and refill the litter boxes daily. Don't just scoop out the solid waste and stir up the wet litter; it may look better to you, but all you've done is spread the urine throughout the box soiling the entire box and making it offensive for your cat to step in.

If you're using scoopable litter, scoop each litter box at least once daily. Add fresh litter as needed to replace the soiled litter that was removed.

Empty and thoroughly clean scoopable litter boxes at least every 1-2 months. Use soap and water and be sure to remove all traces of litter and soil, and then disinfect the box with a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse the box thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach!

Keep the area around the litter boxes clean. You can place the litter boxes on a plastic runner, a vinyl tablecloth, or a short-knapped bath mat. These can be cleaned easily by shaking them outside or laundering them.

You can place a tracking mat in front of the litter box. We recommend the Litter Welcome Mat, which we have available for purchase at Paws Whiskers & Claws. Any litter that is on your cat's feet falls through the grid and into the mat; it's easy to clean and reduces the amount of litter tracked onto the floor. You can pour the tracked litter from the tray back into the litter box.

Replace litter boxes about every two years, or more frequently if the surfaces become deeply scratched or stained.

Cleaning Soiled Areas

If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat's delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.

There are many odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme cleaners tend to work the best. We recommend Urine Off or Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover. We have found these products to be quite effective when used as directed.

What If My Cat Starts Urinating or Defecating Outside the Litter Box?

There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:

      • Medical conditions,
      • Stress and inter-cat aggression,
      • Poor litter box logistics.

Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!

The first step is to take your cat to the veterinarian!

The most common reasons for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.

After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.

Read our handout "Coping with Inappropriate Elimination" for help in determining he cause of the problem and how to address it.

Photo property of Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline, LLC.

Filed Under: Behavior

Inappropriate Elimination, What to Do When your Cat Refuses to Use the Litter Box



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Cat owners often become understandably frustrated when their cat begins to urinate or defecate outside the litter box. Nearly 1 cat in 10 will have an inappropriate elimination problem in her lifetime.

Why isn’t my cat using the litter box?

There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:

  • Medical conditions
  • Stress and inter-cat aggression
  • Litter box logistics

Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!

What should I do if my cat starts urinating or defecating outside the litter box?

The first step is to take the cat to your veterinarian! The most common reason for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.

After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.

Do not punish the cat or confine her to just one room. Some people think they can “re-train” the cat in that way, but it doesn’t work! Cats aren’t trained to use a litter box; they use it instinctively. Confining the cat to one room will increase her frustration and stress level, but it won’t solve the problem!

What medical reasons can cause litter box problems?

Your cat may have a urinary tract infection, urinary crystals, bladder stones,or external infections such as urethritis or vaginitis. It could even be pain caused by a seemingly unrelated problem such as an abscessed tooth or arthritis.

Why? If your cat feels pain or discomfort when she uses the litter box, she doesn’t understand that the pain is coming from her kidneys or broken tooth, or whatever the cause. She just knows that litterbox=pain, so she’ll try try to find another place to eliminate, hoping that will make the pain end. But urinating on the bedroom carpet doesn’t ease her pain either, so she tries another spot, and the cycle continues!

You may even need to change the look, feel, or location of the litter box after the medical problem is resolved to encourage your cat to use the litter box again.

Other medical problems that may be associated with inappropriate elimination:

  • Kidney Failure
  • Diabetes Mellitus
  • Hyperthyroidism
  • High Blood Pressure
  • Anxiety Disorders
  • Constipation
  • Impacted Anal Glands
  • Intestinal Parasites
  • Skin or Flea Allergies
  • Cancer

Appropriate treatment of the underlying medical condition may end your cat’s inappropriate elimination. If not, it’s time to examine other possible causes.

Stress-related elimination problems

Yes, cats can get stressed, and they may show their distress by urinating or defecating outside the litter box.

Stress can come from changes in your household: moving, the birth of a child, the addition of another pet,etc. These stresses may cause not only litter box problems, but they may aggravate existing medical conditions.

When possible, introduce changes grad ually, and allow the cat to explore new people and things at her own pace.

You can help your cat cope by providing a “safe room” for your cat – a place where she can go to escape the stress. The safe room must have food,water, litter boxes, a comfortable kitty bed, and some toys. Put a baby gate in the doorway to discourage unwanted visitors. Introduce the cat to the saferoom, but you don’t need to confine her there; let her use it when she feels the need.

Cat condos and cat trees are important to stress management. A tall sturdy cat tree gives your cat a secure perch from which to view what’s going on,and it gives her a place to escape. This is particularly important if you have small children, dogs, or multiple cats. The height offers your cat safety and a feeling of control. It is especially comforting to them if they can view multiple rooms from a single vantage point.

Consider using Feliway, which is a synthetic product that mimics feline facial pheromones and helps a cat feel at ease.It is available in a spray as well as an electric diffuser.

We offer behavioral counseling and a variety of educational handouts that may help you make your cat more content and less stressed

Aggression between cats

One cause of stress is aggression between cats in a multi-cat household. You can greatly reduce this aggression by providing plenty of litter boxes as well as multiple food and water dishes. It is important that the cats don’t have to compete for too few bowls and boxes! Place feeding stations and litter boxes throughout your home; don’t concentrate them in one area! Cats are at their most vulnerable when they are eliminating, and so it’s vital to make sure that they feel safe in the litter box and won’t be ambushed by other cats, the family dog, or a curious toddler!

Feliway (described above) can help with aggression issues.You can also call us to discuss other behavior modification options, including medication.

Remember that cat trees and cat condos are important to multi-cat households. They help cats establish a hierarchy, which is important to their group dynamic.

Aggression between catsLitter box logistics

There are several factors to consider, including the number and size of boxes, location, type, litter box filler,etc. Inappropriate elimination could be the result of having too few litter boxes,using the wrong size or type of box,placing the boxes in appropriate locations, or using the wrong litter box filler.

Please read our Litter Box Facts handout for detailed information on maintaining your cats’ litter boxes.

Cleaning and managing soiled areas

If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat’s delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.

Sometimes the best solution is to give the cat what she seems to be asking for: place a litter box in the area where she’s eliminating! If you don’t want to leave the litter box there permanently, we will advise you on how to gradually move the litter box into a more acceptable location after your cat uses that litter box consistently for several weeks.

There are several odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme-based cleaners tend to work the best. The product that we recommend most frequently is Urine Off. We also suggest Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover.

You can also make the soiled are less attractive to your cat:

  • Place cat’s food or water at the site (after cleaning)
  • Provide alternative way to mark (scratching post or pad)
  • Aluminium foil
  • Scat mats
  • Potpourri on the site
  • Motion sensors with audible alarm
  • Catnip on the site
  • Double-sided tape
  • Upside-down contact paper or vinyl carpet runner (nub side up)
  • Citrus-based sprays (many cats dislike the smell of citrus)
  • SsssCAT motion sensor deterrents

Call us for additional ideas about deterrents!

If that doesn’t work...

Sometimes a cat will continue to soil an area that has been thoroughly cleaned.

Why? The cat apparently feels a need to mark that spot. Every time you remove the scent marking, your cat may be compelled to mark the area again.

When that happens, you can try a different approach. Instead of using enzyme cleaner, clean the area with plain water, then spray the area with Feliway. You won’t smell urine, but your cat may be satisfied that the area is still marked, and not need to mark it again. Use Feliway on the area; the Feliway encourages facial marking and reduces the chance that the cat will spray urine there again.

Spray Feliway on the area twice a day (every 12 hours) for the first 4 weeks,then once daily for another 4 weeks.

Note that the enzyme cleaner breaks down the pheromones in Feliway,making it ineffective, so don’t use enzyme cleaner on surfaces marked with Feliway.

The bottom line

  • Inappropriate elimination often has a medical cause.
  • There are many things you can doto prevent behavioral litter box problems. It’s far easier to prevent these problems than to resolvethem after they start.
  • Always remember that your cat’s relationship with the litter box is complex and emotional. It’s not just a feline toilet

Filed Under: Behavior

Environmental Enrichment, A Bored Cat Spells Trouble

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Here at Paws Whiskers & Claws, we advocate indoor only cats. This lifestyle keeps them healthier,safer and living longer lives. However, cats may get bored or frustrated being kept inside. Below are some suggestions for keeping them active, stimulated and happy.Remember that cats are very prey specific, so trying different varieties of toys is important to find just what your cat likes to hunt.

Alphabet Magnets
Place these on the lower half of the fridge, oven, dishwasher, or on a magnetic board for your cat to bat around. You can find these at most toy stores.
Birds and Bees
For visual entertainment attract birds or squirrels with strategic placement of bird and squirrel feeders outside windows and screened porches. For nighttime viewing, try leaving a porch light on to attract flying insects. This may help you sleep better if your cat is active at night.
Bringing the Outside In
As long as your cat is current on vaccinations and deworming, bring in tree branches, rocks, leaves, things from the outdoors to pique their senses. Try hiding treats around or under these items for extra fun, or fill a box with leaves and throw a handful of treats in for your cat to forage.Additionally, you may purchase live catnip or grass plants from most PetsMart locations.These plantsprovide instant gratification and cost about $5.00 each.
Cat Carrier
Try leaving your cat’s carrier out in the home all the time. Make it inviting by placing bedding and/or treats inside for your cat to enjoy. This will also desensitize your cat to the carrier making trips to the vet easier for both of you.
Catnip Marinade
Place all soft fuzzy toys in container with catnip to “marinate”. You can do this as often as needed to refresh the scent.This can be financially helpful because you won’t have to buy new toys as often.
Chirping Fuzzy Mice and Birds
Wal Mart has a gray one with pink ears that is a favorite. There are many versions of this motion activated toy. Some chirp like live mice, some move around and some have flashing lights.
Drinking Fountain
There are several different water fountains for cats that simulate drinking from a stream or water faucet. The model we prefer is the Drinkwell Pet Fountain. It can be taken apart and cleaned, has charcoal filters that can be replaced as needed and you can purchase an optional reservoir which is great for multi-cat households or cats that require lots of fresh water.Retail price starts at approximately $49.99 and can be ordered directly from the manufacturer at www.vetventures.com or by calling 866-322-2530.Also available at PetsMart.
Feline Furniture
Cat Condos will give your cat a place of their own, increase vertical space in your home and create “safe zones” from dogs, children or other cats. Our favorite condos are from www.AngelicalCat.com,they carry a wide array of styles, sizes and colors. You may reach Angelical Cat by phone at 954-747-3629.Some other websites we recommend are www.TrendyCat.com,www.KittyPod.com and www.TheRefinedFeline.com.Scratching posts and horizontal cardboard scratching pads give your cat an appropriate surface to scratch. The “Cat’s Meow Scratching Post” is available at Paws Whiskers & Claws for $60. Cardboard scratchers are available at most pet retail outlets such as PetsMart and the cost starts at approximately $6.95.
Fish Tanks
Having a fish tank is an excellent way to keep your cat occupied, especially at night when you are trying to sleep. Obviously, you’ll want to make sure to have a secure lid to keep fish safe. Also, make sure you are prepared for the effort of caring for additional pets.
Foraging Toys
These are toys that must be manipulated for your cat to obtain a food reward. A couple of examples are the “Kitty Kong” and the food distributor ball from www.SlimCat.com.Unfortunately, there are not many styles of foraging toys for cats available at most retail pet outlets. You can make your own foraging toys by using small plastic household containers and cutting out holes that are slightly larger than the size of the food/treats that you will put inside.Another homemade variation would be a shoebox with holes cut out about the size of a ping pong ball and then fill with treats and a few ping pong balls as an “obstacle”.Be sure to tape the lid on.We have a variety of foraging toys available at Paws Whiskers & Claws.
Hunting
In addition to foraging,satisfy your cat’s prey drive,by hiding treats or food around the house, in places your cat frequents such as: on top of their scratching post,cat condos, window seats or anywhere you know they will seek it out or stumble upon it.
Interactive Toys
These are toys that allow you and you cat to play together and often provide great exercise for your cat. Laser pointers, available at most office supply stores and some department stores like Target, range in price from $6-$20. The Feline Flyer is a feather toy that mimics a bird and the Dragonfly is a toy on a wire creating erratic movement. Both of these toys are available at Paws Whiskers & Claws.A good old fashion piece of string works great too-just make sure to always put it away when playtime is over. If ingested, string or ribbon can cause an intestinal obstruction which is very dangerous.
Keepin’ It Fresh
While cats don’t like drastic changes to their routine or environment, subtle changes can be good. Moving the furniture around or changing a cat condo from one window to another can be stimulating and create interest instead of stress.
Light-up Laser Balls
Just like the chirping fuzzy mice and birds above, there are many different motion activated balls that provide hours of entertainment for cats by flashing when touched or rolled.
Motorized Toys
There are many motorized toys available on the market.The Panic Mouse has been previously featured in Catnip magazine as “Best Motorized Toy” of the year.It is“...an electronic mouse that randomly waves a wand and attached spider toy through the air for your cat to chase and grab, mimicking a human waving awand toy. The wand moves in different directions and at different speeds,sometimes pausing. It is also height and speed adjustable.” The Panic Mouse as well as other great motorized toys can be ordered at www.PanicMouseInc.com or by calling 951-506-3643 and costs approximately $30.00.At Paws Whiskers & Claws we offer the Fling-ama-string, hours of automatic fun for your feline friend.Remember your cat should always be supervised during play-do not leave these toys turned on when you are not home.
Nature Videos
Some cats enjoy watching television, especially if it’s geared for them. They’ll love the sounds and sights of nature videos or try leaving the television tuned to Animal Planet. There are also videos produced for cats that feature aquariums,birds and squirrels. You can purchase our “Kitty Cat TV” DVD for about $20 or check the ads in the back of “Cats” or “Cat Fancy” magazines.
Nightlights
Cats can not see in the dark, however cats can see well in about 1/8th of the light required by a human.This is why cats are most active and hunt at dawn and dusk. This lighting can be mimicked at home by placing nightlights by food,litterbox or sleeping areas. This will benefit all cats, particularly those who are geriatric, and it may also decrease intercat aggression.
Old Standbys
Cats love investigating things like cardboard boxes, paper bags, newspaper tents and cardboard rolls from paper towels or toilet paper. You can also try putting toys or treats inside the cardboard rolls thus turning them into foraging toys.
Outdoor Enclosures
Even indoor cats can enjoy the outdoors safely through screened in porches,screened in decks, window seats, chain link enclosures (www.HabitatHaven.com)or Kitty Walks (877-548-8905 or www.KittyWalkSystems.com).The most important thing is to ensure that the enclosure is secure, covered on all four sides and has a roof or ceiling so that cats can’t escape.The Purrfect Fence(www.PurrfectFence.com)does not have a roof but does offer a secure “Houdini-Proof" arch that prevents cats from being able to scale the fence.If you allow your cats outdoor time in an enclosure or on a leash and harness, makesure your cats are current on vaccines, flea control and are dewormed regularly.
Ping-Pong Balls
Try putting 2 or more ping-pong balls in a bathtub. Cats will love jumping in and batting them around. This can be a bit noisy, so if the bathtub is near your bedroom, make sure to take them out before you go to sleep.
Training
Contrary to popular belief, cats can be trained to sit, come and do tricks on command, even walk on a leash and harness. Treat training is recommended for cats. Much like their canine counterparts, training your cat stimulates the brain,gives them a job to do and gives them a more enriched life. A good reference book is “Training Your Cat” by Dr. Kersti Seksel.
WaterFun
Place small wind up toys in a sink filled with water; also try any items that float like ping-pong balls, or a large bright marble so they have to “go fishing” for it.You can find wind up toys in the infant bath section of toy or department stores.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior

Foraging, Hunting for the Indoor Cat

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  • Implementing Foraging As A Feeding Protocol

Foraging toys are food dispensing containers that your cat manipulates in efforts to get food or treats to dispense. These types of toys give your indoor cat something to stalk and hunt,giving them a much needed outlet for their prey drive and hunting instincts. Most behaviorists agree that many behavior problems in cats stem from boredom,frustration and stress. A lack of mental stimulation can result in up to 30% loss of brain function over time in both animals and humans.Much like the need for humans to learn a new skill, do crossword puzzles, read etc. to keep our brains working; cats and dogs need similar challenges to alleviate senility, boredom, and mental dullness. The concept of foraging is designed to make your cat think and problem solve, and they get rewarded each time they figure out the puzzle.

Getting Started

Foraging can be a fun game and a way to give your cat treats; or if they are really good at it and are active foragers, it can be how you feed them their dry food. It is recommended that you start off with clear containers with a lot of holes so it is really easy and they barely have to bat at it to get food to dispense.We recommend using a plastic water bottle as a first toy. It is clear so your cat can see, hear, and smell the food rattling around inside. It is best to fill up the container;but not so full that the food does not move around freely; but DO NOT simply put 2 or 3 pieces of kibble in there because that is when foraging toys are the most difficult.

Once your cat has gotten the hang of foraging, move on to containers with fewer holes, objects that are opaque, objects that do not roll easily, or even cubes! It is important to continue to offer new and interesting objects to keep your cat from getting bored with them. If they continue to empty the same container for months and months, they may lose interest.

We have a variety of foraging toys available for purchase at Paws Whiskers and Claws, and you can try making some yourself.You are only limited by your imagination and creativity. It is also a great way to recycle your plastic household containers one additional time before they make it to the recycling bin!

Another great foraging toy purchase is the Peek-a Prize Toy box. This is a finished wooden box with many holes cut into it like a giant piece of Swiss cheese. Fill the box with balls,toy mice and food; so that the toys become an obstacle that your cat must move in order to access the food.

You can easily make one of these foraging boxes yourself out of an old shoebox.Simply cut some holes in the side and top of the shoebox slightly larger than the toys you are putting inside.This is so that they can get the toys out too. Fill with a handful of food.It is important to tape the lid on so that your cat does not simply take the lid off and eat out of the box like a bowl.Some cats, especially kittens, will be motivated by the toys alone and forage for them without even needing food to motivate them. Cereal boxes can also work well for this type of toy.

Motivating Your Cat To Forage

  • Place the foraging toy on the floor and sprinkle a few pieces of the food or treats around the toy, so that your cat will eat those and then smell that there are more in the toy. Hopefully they will get the idea and bat the object around with their paws or nudge it with their nose.
  • Put something different in the foraging toy other than what is in your cats’food bowl.There is no motivation to forage if they have a bowl of the same thing sitting a few feet away on the kitchen floor.
  • Show them how to forage. If your cat is just not getting the concept, push the toy around a bit with your hand, roll it, and show them that if they do this food falls out! Help them to learn. Be patient. Remember, they have not had this type of challenge before there is a chance it could take them a while to catch on.
  • Keep at it! Try all kinds of different treats and foods; sometimes it is all about finding the right motivator. Cats are great observational learners, so if you can get one or two of your cats to get the hang of it, the others will soon follow. When one kitty is having a ball and getting treat after treat it is bound to stimulate interest and make your other cats wonder, hey what are they eating over there?
  • If your cats are not motivated by food, this type of environmental enrichment will likely not be successful.

What should I put in my foraging toy?

We recommend offering foraging toys daily. We recommend using the Hill’s prescription Diet T/D (available at Paws Whiskers and Claws) or the Science DietOral Care(available at Petsmart). These are both dental diets that are high in fiber, and good for hairball control.T/D is a low calorie version of Oral Care.Using regular food allows you to be generous about filling the foraging toys.Oftentimes we find that many cats prefer the dental diets and it is a much healthier alternative to treats. You can also blend the dental food and a few treats such as Feline Greenies. This keeps it exciting;not all the kibble that falls out is the same.

A Challenge for your cat and easy for you

Keeping the humans motivated to continue filling these toys is another challenge.If your cats love to forage we suggest making this chore as easy on you as possible;you will be more likely to keep the toys filled if you do not need to do it daily. We recommend doing this by having a wide variety of foraging toys. Fill them up once a week and keep them in an airtight bin in your pantry, then simply throw a few on the floor before you leave for the day, or before you go to bed. This gives your cat hours of fun while you are not home or while you are sleeping. Offer foraging toys away from your bedroom so that it does not keep you awake.If your pet suffers from separation anxiety, providing foraging toys can help alleviate this behavior problem in both cats and dogs.It is also important to have a variety so that your cats do not get bored with them. New objects means new challenges; which means smarter more mentally challenged cats.

How do I keep my dog or toddler from foraging too?

If you have a canine family member or young child that may like to sample the contents of the feline foraging toy we suggest using a baby gate to keep dogs and small hands from being able to forage too! Baby gates are a great way to keep your dog from getting into your cats food and litterbox as well. For some older children, filling the foraging toys can be a great household chore.

Foraging as a weight loss program.

If we have recommended that you use foraging as a weight loss program we first encourage you to get your cats actively foraging using the dental diets. Once they have the hang of it we have some toys available here with smaller holes for the low calorie Science Diet kibble. Your cats must also eat low calorie canned food 2-3 times per day.

The idea is to create a lower carbohydrate diet, while still allowing your cat to free feed.Dry food has a lot more carbohydrates than canned food.They should fill up on the canned food at least twice a day and have the dry kibble in the foraging toys; so they essentially are still free feeding,but they are keeping active, rather than lying down in front of the food bowl to gorge.

In summary

Foraging toys are one of the best toys you can provide for your cat, ideally coupled with a few sessions of interactive play each day. It serves many purposes and provides hours of constant entertainment. Foraging would be a natural part of your cats’ daily activities if allowed outdoors.Since we encourage indoor only cats, or secure outdoor enclosures, foraging is as close as you canget to providing your indoor cat something to hunt.Remember that if you do not use it you lose it. Foraging will keep your cat active and mentally challenged for a happier longer life.

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior

Feline Scratching Behaviors

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Scratching is a normal feline behavior; even declawed cats need to scratch! To avoid accidents and to keep your furniture safe, you need to understand why your cat scratches and what she needs to fill her scratching requirements.

Paws Whiskers & Claws does not declaw! We know that it is unnecessary, and we prefer to educate our clients about feline scratching and how to stop inappropriate scratching behavior.

Why do cats scratch?

There are many reasons why a cat scratches, including:

  • Marking: cats have scent glands in the pads of their feet and they scratch to leave scent marks. They often do this to mark the belongings you share, such as the sofa.
  • Shedding the outer sheaths of the nail: a cat’s nails grow in layers (like an onion) and they need to scratch to shed the outer nail sheath, or the nail could continue to grow into the foot pad.
  • Relieving stress or frustration: some cats may increase their marking (such as scratching and urine marking) when they are anxious.
  • Stretching: watch how your cat s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-s as she scratches to flex her spine.
  • Exuberance: sometimes your cat scratches just because it feels good!

Cats may also play or threaten with a swipe of their paws. Play swatting withother cats seldom leads to injuries; usually their claws are retracted during play, and cats are well protected by their thick skin and coat. When play does get a little rough, cats will usually sort out their differences, though sometimes it may escalate to inter-cat aggression that can lead to injuries that require veterinary attention.

With a basic understanding of cat behavior and a little bit of effort, it is possible to prevent or avoid scratching problems.

How can I stop my cat from scratching?

The short answer is: you can’t. It is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely. Cats that go outside may to do much of their scratching outdoors, but they will still need to scratch while indoors. Indoor cats require outlets for their scratching and marking behaviors.

Your goal should not be stopping the scratching behavior, but to focus it to appropriate items and areas. Building, designing or buying a scratching post or cat condos, providing appropriate play toys, and keeping the cat away from potential problem areas will usually deal with most scratching problems.

Think about why the cat is doing what she’s doing. For example, owners may feel frustrated when their cats begin to climb furniture. Remember that kittens can’t leap the way adult cats do, so they use their needle-sharp claws to climb. This is not intentionally destructive, and you can prevent it by providing an option. For example, if your kitten climbs the bedding to get up on your bed, place a low stool next to the bed so she can take two short leaps instead of climbing. The same is true as your cat gets older and her stiff joints keep her from jumping as she used to.

How can I design scratching areas for my cat?

You have to address 1) where your cat needs to scratch and 2) what your cat needs to scratch.

Where?

Your cat wants to mark your belongings (and in effect, mark you) as part of her territory, so place scratching pads and posts in areas where you spend a lot of your time.

Cats also like to scratch and stretch after waking from a nap, so place a post or cat tree close to the cat’s favorite napping spots. Don’t expect the cat to walk across the house or down the stairs to use a scratching post when there’s a perfectly good chair right across the room!

What?

Most pet store scratching posts are simply inadequate: too short, too unsteady, covered with the wrong material… You will save money in the long run by investing in a quality scratching post rather than buying two or three (or more) posts that aren’t suitable.

A vertical post should be at least 30 inches high: tall enough for the cat to scratch while standing on her hind legs with the forelegs extended. It must be sturdy, with a wide base, so that it does not wobble or topple over easily.

Stability plays a big role in determining whether a cat will use a particular scratcher. For example, the scratchers made to hang over a doorknob are unstable; consequently many cats won’t use them. You can instead take that scratcher, cut off the hanging loop, and lay it on the floor for use as a horizontal scratcher (more about those below).

The post covering is important! Store-bought scratching posts are usually covered with carpet pieces which won’t help your cat remove the outer nail sheaths. You can’t expect the cat to know the difference between the carpet on the post (OK to scratch) and the carpet on the floor (off-limits). The best covering is sisal fabric; the next-best option is tightly wound sisal rope. A carpet-covered post may be an acceptable option in addition to a sisal post.

Remember that scratching is also a marking behavior and cats want to leave a visual mark. Her tattered scratching post may not look good to you, but to your cat, it’s perfect. Don’t rush to replace or re-cover it!

Some cats prefer a horizontal or slanted surface rather than a post. If you don’t provide an appealing scratching option, then the back of your sofa may look awfully inviting! Consider getting a sisal-covered scratching pad or corrugated cardboard scratcher, which can lie flat on the floor or slanted at an angle.

Some cats prefer to scratch on a piece of bare wood. Many cat trees offer wood or sisal-covered surfaces for scratching.

How can I get my cat to use the post?

First, remember what we said about location! Your cat wants to mark in areas of the home that you both use often, not in the spare bedroom or the dark dusty basement. You may need to start by placing the post in a prominent area (such as the corner of the sofa) until she begins using the post. Then you can slowly (very slowly, over days or weeks!) inch the post toward a less obtrusive location.

Make the post and the surrounding area a fun and interesting place for your cat. Provide things that appeal to cats, such as perches to climb on, hideaways to snuggle in to, and toys dangling from ropes or attached to springs. Place a few play toys, treats, or even the food bowl in the area to help to keep the cat occupied. Place a toy or treat on top of the post; she’ll find that reward when she climbs the post. Entice her to chase a toy or laser light that you run up the post.

You can rub catnip on the post, or spray it with catnip tea. (Place some catnip in a small container with water and heat it in the microwave for a minute; then put the catnip tea in a spray bottle.)

Give your cat a food reward when you see her use the post. You can rake your fingernails along the post to make scratching noises. You may try to show the cat what you want by taking her to the post and gently rubbing her paws on it in a scratching manner, but do not try this with a fearful or anxious cat.

Unless you live in a very small space, you probably need to provide multiple scratching posts in various areas of your home. If you have multiple cats, you definitely need multiple posts!

What can I do if the cat continues to scratch my furniture?

Remember that your cat is clearly showing you where she needs to mark! It’s your job to find a way to meet her needs and your own. This may take a little time, effort, and strategy!

If the cat continues to use one or two pieces of furniture, consider placing a scratching post directly in front of the furniture that is being scratched, or placing a cat condo near the area. Take a good look at the surfaces of the scratched furniture; since the cat clearly like that material, make sure that her scratching post is covered with a similar texture. Some scratching posts are designed to wrap around the corners of a sofa, armchair or wall, such as the Cataround (www.cataround.com).

It may help to place additional scratching posts or cat condos in appropriate areas. Be sure to keep the cat’s claws trimmed!

Feliway is a synthetic product that mimics feline facial pheromones and aids in curbing destructive scratching. (It’s also used to treat aggression and inappropriate elimination.) It is available in a spray or as an electric diffuser; to deter destructive scratching, we find the spray to more effective. Apply it daily to the area that you do not want the cat to scratch. The spray dissipates over a 24-hour period, just as natural scent marking does, which is why you need to reapply daily. We’d be happy to discuss use of this product with you.

How do I punish my cat for inappropriate scratching?

Don’t punish your cat for doing what is most natural to her! Punishment will just make her fearful of you, and can lead the cat to scratch when you aren’t around to see her.

The idea is to train the cat not to scratch certain surfaces and areas, even in your absence. Help the cat learn to use the post by making other surfaces less desirable. For example, if your cat likes to scratch on the end of the sofa, cover it with a material that she doesn’t like to scratch, such as plastic, aluminum foil, or double-sided tape.

Cayenne pepper can be an effective deterrent; it’s harmless, but can cause sneezing. It is easy to apply and clean up. Citrus-based scents or ginger can deter some cats.

You may consider indirect, non-physical punishment if you can remain out of sight. That allows your cat to learn that inappropriate scratching brings unpleasant results, even when you aren’t there. You can booby-trap problem areas so that scratching (or even approaching) the area is unpleasant for the cat. For example, use a motion detector with an audible alarm, or stack a few plastic cups that will topple if your cat scratches in the wrong place.

Of course, no deterrent will work unless you provide the cat with an alternative scratching area that is appealing and well placed.

Resources

  • The sisal-weave posts and scratching pads available at our hospital work better than any other post that we have seen. They are designed to meet your cat’s needs for a tall, sturdy scratching post, and are meticulously hand-crafted.
  • We offer free nail trims any time, no appointment necessary. We can also teach you how to trim your cat’s nails. Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed will minimize damage done if your cat occasionally strays from the post.
  • As a last resort, we offer a product called Soft Paws. They are plastic caps you put on the tips of a cat’s nails using a non-toxic adhesive. You can call us for more information about this product, but most clients find it unnecessary. Soft Paws are a temporary fix because they will not change the cat’s behavior; they just temporarily curb the destruction.

The bottom line

There are many reasons why cats scratch. By being considerate of her needs and conscious of your decisions, you can provide her with appealing and appropriate places that meet her need to scratch, and she’ll leave your furniture alone. There is never a need to declaw a cat to eliminate inappropriate scratching behavior!

Written by Ingrid Johnson, CCBC Certified Cat Behavior Consultant of Fundamentally Feline  Photos property of Ingrid Johnson

Filed Under: Behavior

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